Yauatcha City – one of the greats

Broadgate Circle is a new development a short walk from Liverpool Street. A giant circular pit, like the amphitheatres of the ancient Roman Empire, refashioned for the capitalist era. Where gladiators have been replaced with ill-fitting navy suits and £8 pints. Swerve the smell of money and pale ale and head straight to the upper levels. There you will find Yauatcha City, the latest member of the international Hakkasan dynasty and sibling to the original Michelin-starred Yauatcha in Soho.

THE CUISINE

All-day dim sum, alongside other modern Chinese delights. Don’t forget to leave space for the legendary patisserie goods which have also made the emigration to the new city boy playground. Expect macarons, petit gateaux and chocolates crafted with clinical precision. They would be just as at home on your mantelpiece as they would be in your stomach.

THE VIBE

Spanning the entire top floor of Broadgate circle, it’s clean, glossy and huge. Imagine Starship Enterprise huge. Upon walking from one end to the other you will spot work team power lunches putting champagne on expenses to wealthy non-doms playing catch-up and acting cultured. However the staff are enthusiastic and well-versed in their cuisine, suggesting teas with scientific accuracy.

THE FOOD

The menu is overwhelming, but the signature dishes are worthy of their pedestals so there is no need to stray. Begin with traditional dim sum, the highlight being the king crab xiao long bao; bursting with a gelatinous soup filling that spills out at first bite. The prawn and crispy bean curd cheung fun deserves to define what dim sum itself should be. Wrapping crunchy bean curd with soft silky noodle and intense umami, it contrasts textures like no other. The Jasmine tea-smoked pork ribs were eye-wateringly fragrant and the baked venison puffs packed rich meat with intensely sweet and soft pastry.

THE DRINKS

The drinks menu is confusing but the sommelier is on point with selections. Start with the sharp and sweet Yang Walker Martini, mixing Johnnie Walker Black Label with Chinese spirit Baiju, rosemary, grapefruit and ginger bitters. Pair your desert with a glass of sweet, viscous Umeshu for an Asian spin on desert wine. Finally, end with one of the 40 varieties of tea, expertly chosen to ease your woes, clear the cobwebs or aid digestion.

THE DAMAGE

You could eat comfortably for under £50 for two, with Dim sum from £4.20 and mains from £15. But that would be a disservice to the food on show.

CONCLUSION

There is a lot of good Chinese food in London, yet few are truly great. With some of the best dim sum in London and a Patisserie that gives Paris a run for its money, Yauatcha City successfully brings its outstanding eastern flavours to a slick city setting.

BEST FOR

Casual after work meals, big blowout celebrations and expensive people watching.