Should a gentleman wear a double-breasted jacket?
Words: Alex Woodhall
In the realm of men’s tailoring, it can be difficult to mix things up; deviating from the approved colour palette can be costly and too many accessories detracts from the seriousness. By now your closet should be stacked with single-breasted, two-button suits – they’re the backbone of everyman’s formal wardrobe after all. That saying, one means of adding a touch of flair, that will raise eyebrows for all the right reasons, is by freshening things up with a double-breasted jacket.
This more daring cut has enjoyed some time in the sartorial spotlight of late. Rising to prominence a few years ago, it’s now fully established as a suitable alternative for mixing up your tailoring. Bury any preconceptions you’ve got of a double-breast being the reserve of the guffawing yacht club members and the ageing south of France set. They’ve infiltrated the mainland, in a smarter, more put-together guise. Forget the gold, anchor-etched buttons – the current DB is smart, sophisticated and slick. Stick to four to six buttons, two to fasten and avoid any evocations of less-than-stylish bygone eras with anything that buttons too low.
There are a few other things you need to be aware of if you’re trading the single out and opting for a double; nobody said this was going to be easy. The first is the cut, take it to a tailor and have it tapered to your torso for a perfect fit. It should nip in at the waist to bring your shoulders to prominence, creating a flattering v-shaped appearance.
If you’re a shorter guy, this cut may not be for you. Whilst anyone can wear a double-breasted blazer and look great, they certainly look best on a taller gent. But, whether you’re short, tall or in between, the jacket should not extend too far below the belt. Whilst a standard suit jacket can cover your behind, the modern DB is shorter and shouldn’t be extending too far below your crotch.
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