

Words: Josh Lee
With April now having kicked off, we once again welcome in a new edition of the watch world’s greatest event. As expected, the horological whirlwind in Geneva has thrown out some pretty dizzying designs, and a key theme has been the resurrection of a few icons from the past, notably by Piaget and Cartier. Meanwhile, Rolex has rolled out a singular new piece, and the likes of Tudor and Vacheron Constantin have stuck to their timeless formulas. Here are our picks from the event…
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Days


Several months on from releasing its first new collection in 25 years, Patek Philippe has now exhibited an updated Calatrava with an ‘instantaneous’ day-date function and an impressive power reserve of eight days, which is fuelled by two series-coupled barrels. (There’s also a ninth ‘reserve’ day, as flagged by the red indicator at the top.)
“Not Patek’s most talked about design from this year’s show, however we love its simplicity combined with Patek’s attention to detail. A winning combination” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer


In classic Nomos style, the label’s newest offerings are punchy in colour and sleek in overall aesthetics. The sporty world time line is a first for the brand, and is available in six vibrant options that are an ode to ‘the most beautiful landscapes in the world’: Volcano, Jungle, Canyon, Glacier, Magma and Dune. We like the fact that the sub-dial showing the home time is split in two halves to represent day and night.
“Nomos has really pulled it out the bag with this. It feels great on the wrist and is at an amazing price point for a world timer. My favourite is the core model in silver” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon


The main draw card for this creation is the soothing blue dial – a feature that was influenced by nature, says the brand. When hit by light, bits of purple can be seen, adding an extra depth to the look. The slender Assegai hands fortify the elegant style.
“This timepiece really has to be worn. The blue dial is stunning, especially against the light-brown suede strap” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
Grand Seiko SLGB001


Limited to 80 pieces, this masterstroke by Grand Seiko has its accuracy measured not by seconds per day, week or month – but over a single year. This is thanks to the fact that the automatic U.F.A. movement has an annual rate of ±20 seconds, which, as a result, makes it the most accurate wristwatch movement powered by a mainspring.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF


The Alpine Eagle range has been updated and tweaked ever since its 2019 arrival – and the third edition is the lightest option in the collection, a feat achieved by its use of ‘ceramicised’ titanium and a ‘special-shaped’ rubber strap. The 01.14-C movement has also helped ease the weight, as the mainplate and bridges are made of the same material.
“This for me is the ultimate sports watch. Perfect for a weekend up the mountains. It also feels great on the wrist being so incredibly light” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date


The Big Crown Pointer Date, a model that stretches back to 1938, is given a fresh but still dressed-up spin, with the addition of a sporty stainless-steel H-link bracelet, and new Calibre 403 models in ‘warm terracotta’ or green. Within, there’s the in-house anti-magnetic movement that can call upon a five-day power reserve.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds


As we slowly close in on a century of the Reverso line, Jaeger-LeCoultre reveals a slate of classy options, including the Tribute Monoface Small Seconds and the Tribute Duoface. The former, in particular, has caught our eye, with its art deco spirit that brings together a Milanese link bracelet, an 18k pink-gold case and a grained dial.
“We didn’t think we needed a Reverso with a gold Milanese link bracelet, however we do now. A standout piece” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold


There’s both a decadent and naturalistic look about this design, thanks largely to its pairing of Lange’s exclusive honeygold metal with a rich brown dial. The red 60, meanwhile, injects a little colour on the bevelled flange ring. It is limited to 100 pieces.
Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets


A standout moment from the week so far, the French house resurrects a revered and rare model from 1928. Futuristic, brutalist and showing only the bare minimum, it comes in two takes: the first looks back at the original design, with an hour aperture at 12 and a minute aperture at 6; the second, meanwhile, has the two openings at angles, in a playful nod to the 1930s.
“So modern and so sleek, yet the Tank à Guichets dates back to 1928. This is set to be one of Cartier’s standout timepieces for 2025” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller


Rolex has brought a new model into its storied collection – and many have already labelled it as the venture’s most innovative to date. The most notable feat is the integrated bracelet – the Flat Jubilee – that marries nicely with the Oyster case, both of which form a slim, thin profile. There’s also a smart alternation between polished and satin finishes, it’s patent-loaded and the honeycomb dial is a standout design detail.
Piaget Andy Warhol


A wristwear icon with roots back to the 1970s and the renowned pop artist, the 2025 Andy Warhol arrives in a slew of expressive choices, including one that features blue sapphires and an opal dial. The option in 18k white-gold still maintains a punchy look, but is slightly more toned-down, with its textured tiger eye dial and complementary brown leather strap.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding


Celebrating 270 years, Vacheron Constantin has launched a comprehensive coterie of timepieces – but, even among the long list of options, we always fall for the timeless charms. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding has a dial designed with a special geometric motif, and the Calibre 4400 AS/270, is, like all those marking the occasion, upgraded with a ‘côte unique’ finish and engraved with the anniversary emblem.
“The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle has always been a firm favourite of ours. This limited edition hits the mark, especially with the off-centred Maltese cross on the dial” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
Tudor Black Bay 68


Who said blue and black don’t go together? Coming in at 43mm, it’s named after the year in which the house came up with the iconic snowflake hand. The key difference with this new version is that it has smooth side flanks rather than the throwback rivets, and is also available in silver satin.
IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 42 in Black Ceramic, and Ingenieur Automatic 40 in 18k 5N Gold


The two IWC standouts this year appear as complete opposites. First is the all-black, ready-for-action Ingenieur Automatic 42 in a full ceramic makeup with integrated bracelet. The Ingenieur Automatic 40, on the other hand, arrives in 18k 5N gold that’s contrasted by a black grid dial. The transparent caseback of the latter allows full view of the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre.
“We can’t work out if we prefer the black ceramic or the 18K gold. Either one of these would be a welcome addition to anyone’s watch collection” – Harry Jarman, Editor-in-Chief
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