Words: Justin Hast
In recent years, the watch industry has seen a bounty of new entrants popping up on the scene, particularly at the entry level, something that we, as enthusiasts, greatly appreciate. Yet, it’s extremely rare to have an exciting, avant-garde independent watchmaker coming in at the very top, and the reasons for this are many, including the fact it’s incredibly expensive to develop a standout case, an interesting complication, and an in-house calibre. However, at this echelon, these are the features you really need if you want to succeed. So, when I had the opportunity to get hands-on with the Vanguart Orb, I was over the moon because it was immediately clear to me that this Swiss watchmaker has created a case shape that’s unlike anything else on the market: it’s recognisable across the room and is produced with a technical prowess that would see it fit seamlessly alongside the older names.
Vanguart Orb, from 150,000 CHF, vanguart.com
Vanguart was founded in 2017 by a team of experienced watchmakers and designers, all of who cut their teeth at big industry names, and the focus is on creating timepieces that challenge convention. To this end, the label’s philosophy centres on merging cutting-edge engineering with traditional haute horlogerie.
The Orb, most notably, comes in two variants: a grade-5 titanium model and one combining titanium with 18k rose-gold. Rather notably, housing everything is the symmetrical case that creative director Thierry Fischer describes as “a harmonious shape that evokes relics of the past and visions of the future.” And, although measuring 41mm x 10.5mm, the Orb’s case feels rather compact and sleek thanks to its curved profile and integrated lugs that conform to the wrist.
Moreover, the case’s exquisite hand decoration is further evidence of the brand’s commitment to artisanal excellence – there are intricately crafted angles and openings that require multiple techniques; there are sapphire crystals, including a distinctive concave front crystal; and the interplay of meticulous hand-finished surfaces – sandblasted, satin, and mirror polishing – creates a dynamic exterior.
Powering it all is the groundbreaking in-house movement that’s made with 395 components, is crafted from grade-5 titanium and runs at 21,600vph, with a 60-hour power reserve. Its symmetrical architecture, rather beautifully, is displayed through both crystals. A one-minute flying tourbillon sits at 6 o’clock, and a unique multifunction crown (at 3 o’clock) operates via an innovative transmission system – rather than pulling out, it’s pressed inward to cycle between manual winding, automatic winding and time-setting modes, with the selected mode displayed on the barrel visible at 12 o’clock. Additionally, the rotor incorporates a 2mm brilliant-cut diamond that appears to float as the watch moves, automatically aligning at 12 o’clock when in manual-winding mode. For pure ease, quick-release buttons on the lugs allow for smooth strap changes between rubber and leather options.
Pricing starts at 150,000 CHF for the titanium version, and the rose-gold model commands 180,000 CHF. All in all, it certainly ticks the boxes for those looking for an elegant, envelope-pushing change from the usual suspects.
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