Grooming -- 2 days ago
Words: Gentleman's Journal
If you find that your taste in watches is turning a corner, it may be time to update your preference from a round dial to square. While the sharper edged variety may still be in the minority, rectangular and square watches offer a masculine and timeless take on your timepiece.
One of the most iconic square designs in horological history belongs in the portfolio of luxury retailer Cartier in the form of the Santos. Created in 1904, this legendary timepiece took the company from purveyors of fine jewellery to high-end watchmakers, and set a new standard in timekeeping style. Built for aviation pioneer Alberto Santos Dumont, the watch introduced the concept of wearing a small pocket watch mounted upon a leather strap, allowing him to be able to tell the time hands free while flying. Launched some years later in 1911, the design was immediately popular. Cartier followed up its square success with further models within the Santos range throughout the following decades, including the Santos 100 and the Santos de Cartier.
Cartier Santos 100
The square watch design was particularly well suited to the geometric aesthetic of the Art Deco period. The Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre stands as perhaps the most recognisable example of this new visual taste, offering a streamlined appearance that epitomises the post-war period. Starting life as a creation to withstand the rigours of a polo match, the Reverso’s shape has a practical purpose; the rectangular case uses a flip and slide mechanism, allowing the wearer to turn the dial inward to protect it from shocks and damage. The shape also provides a generous caseback surface, allowing plenty of room for personalisation, with the space often used for engravings or enamel miniatures. World War II brought about a change in demand, as service watches put the focus firmly back on the round watch face.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso
Although square cases inevitably evoke a retro sensibility, modern watchmaking brands are also looking to the four-sided silhouette to forge a distinctive new style of their own. Names such as Seven Friday and Bell & Ross are becoming known for creating up to the minute models in less traditional shapes, with pieces taking their straight-line cues from architecture and industrial influences.
Of course, with smart watches already utilising this shape, we’re sure to see an influx of square wristwear in the coming years; whether they can ever compete with the mechanical beauty of these classic pieces, only time will tell.
Bell & Ross BR-S
By Sarah-Jane Adams
Sarah-Jane Adams is a contributor to Watchfinder & Co.’s digital publication The Watch Magazine. Visitthewatchmagazine.comfor more on watches, andwatchfinder.co.ukto browse a selection of fine pre-owned watches.
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