Cutting it fine: everything you need to know about Thom Sweeney
Announcing the arrival of the menswear label’s understated – yet exuberant – AW23 collection to the GJ Shop
Words: Benedict Browne
It's easy to understand why it might be unusual for a bespoke-tailoring business to both flourish and, simultaneously, develop into a ready-to-wear powerhouse – however, Thom Sweeney, which has been recently introduced to the GJ Shop, isn’t your regular brand. In under a decade, the label, whose slick four-floor flagship townhouse is located on Old Burlington Street, London, has cemented and blossomed such two arms of its business, both of which cater to the modern man who appreciates understated, timeless clothing.
Founded by Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney – who met when they were making their bones in the upper echelons of the bespoke-tailoring trade in the early 2000s, and are revered for their championing of soft tailoring – the brand is a crystallisation of both men’s personal sense of style.
Over the years, there have been constant shifts in tailoring tastes, but, given the multi-faceted lives we’re all accustomed to leading these days, one popular style of the moment is that of soft tailoring. Spearheading this is, of course, Thom Sweeney, whose house borrows the best elements from the Italian and British schools of thought – equal parts ease and a razor sharpness.
For instance, blazers, suits and sports coats are cut in comfortable constructions that feature high armholes, lightly padded chests and natural shoulder lines. They don’t restrict the body with lots of layers – instead, they enhance silhouettes. It’s refined and considered, modern yet still classic.
Thom Sweeney also achieves its level of quality by using only the best materials around. This stems from its early activity as solely a bespoke tailor, meaning that, nowadays, it’s fully accustomed to butter-soft suedes, gorgeous wool flannels and luscious silks from leading mills and suppliers in Italy and Britain.
The AW23 collection is the brand’s most comprehensive range to date, consisting of a wide-range of pieces that cover most bases, from those high-pressure days in the office when your best suit of armour is needed, to relaxed weekends at home when all you want to wear is a cashmere tracksuit.
Starting at the formal end of the spectrum, notable items include the grey and navy peak-lapel single-breasted suits, foundational pieces that are versatile when worn effectively, as they can be dressed up with a shirt and tie for the boardroom, or made casual with a polo or fine-gauge knit – the latter being a signature move of both Thom and Luke.
Comfort, as mentioned, has always been paramount to Thom and Luke’s vision, and, therefore, there’s always a healthy curation of cosy knitwear and separates. For example, in this line, there are drawstring flannel trousers, heavy-duty cashmere knits – from shawl-collar cardigans to chunky cable-knit pieces – and multi-functional brushed-cotton shirts. Our current favourite is the cashmere hoodie, available in a warm oatmeal hue and woven loosely for an unparalleled fit.
For colder days, look no further than the goose-down-filled parka coat. It has a cashmere exterior with a water-repellent treatment. Meanwhile, the suede shearling baseball jacket is the ultimate item to wear on weekends when roaming the farmers’ market.
One of the finest luxury menswear labels around, and with a collection that’s easy to piece together, it truly is a pleasure to now offer Thom Sweeney’s creations on the GJ Shop.
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