These are the 6 most common collar types — and when to wear them…
Most of us button-up button-downs every day. So, from cutaway to Cuban, these are the collar styles every man should have in his wardrobe
Words: Jonathan Wells
Here’s a challenge: without scrolling down, try to name more than five different types of shirt collar. You might get ‘spread’, possibly recall ‘cutaway’ — but after that you’ll likely start getting hot under your own ruff.
It’s just not acceptable. And, before you start with your excuses, just button it. Being well-versed in the subtle — but important — variations in shirt collars is a surefire way to up your outfit game, both formally and casually. So, if you don’t know your band collars from your button-downs, it’s time you learned your shirting styles. Take a look…
For your everyday shirting, opt for a spread collar
A spread collar is your go-to collar. The bread-and-butter button-down of your formal wardrobe. With wider points — angled outwards and slightly downwards — it’s a collar that really needs a tie to live up to its full sartorial potential. We’d recommend tying it together with a classic full or half Windsor knot.
Emma Willis hand cut this Navy Cristallo shirt in its Gloucester factory, and the poplin weave gives it a pleasingly casual edge. Charvet’s shirt is tailored from cotton chosen for its soft, smooth feel and has side slits so it’ll tuck neatly into your trousers. Or opt for Gieves & Hawkes‘ tailored fit, semi-spread collared shirt; the ultimate versatile button-down.
For casual weekend button-ups, button-down your collar
The button-down collar is likely the second most-common style in your wardrobe. But, whereas the spread style has a monopoly on your formalwear, the button-down design was made to ground both your collar points and your fashion — and is ideal for more casual get-ups.
Just take this puppytooth button-down from Loro Piana. The ideal shirt to anchor any smart casual outfit, this cotton collar will stay in place at all times. Oliver Spencer’s ‘Brook’ offering works as a perfect marriage of casual material and style. Or, if you want a more classic cut, Ralph Lauren’s navy option is ideal for layering over a T-shirt.
For a contemporary twist on the traditional, go for a cutaway collar
A cutaway collar is a return to your smarter shirting. With wider points than a spread collar, it’s a modern twist on the traditional, and can — again, unlike the spread collar — be worn without a tie. It’s a design with less depth than some other options, and suits men with slim or long faces.
Emma Willis once again offers up a stellar example of this shirt, finished with real mother of pearl buttons and crafted from a luxurious 2-fold 100 white Genio Swiss cotton. New & Lingwood’s mid-blue poplin option has an extreme cutaway collar specifically created for a more slender frame while Turnbull & Asser’s tailored shirt was specially crafted by its expert bespoke pattern cutter.
To look your black tie best, button up a wing collar
The gold standard of black tie and the solid, bright white base of the smartest of suits, the wing collar shirt isn’t your everyday button-down — but it should be your best. Most men only own one or two or these, so go for the best.
New & Lingwood’s Ritz shirt would look equally at home on a conductor or a character in a costume drama, and has a pure cotton piquet collar. Hackett’s wing tip shirt is another classic take, cast in 100 per cent cotton. And Gieves & Hawkes’ option features a formal winged collar, appropriate for both black and white tie.
For lazy summer days, opt for a relaxed Cuban collar
The Cuban collar, also known as a ‘camp’ collar, is a more relaxed style, that sits flat against the body. Think Hawaiian shirts, or bowling shirts. It’s wider, its buttons sit lower down your chest and it’s also more comfortable than a high-collared offering — making it the ideal style for summer.
From Sir Plus, this navy check print shirt really channels the summer season, and is woven from organic cotton for an extra eco-edge. Sunspel’s cotton-pique offering is light, airy and fastens with iridescent mother-of-pearl buttons. Or, for something a little more casual again, Orlebar Brown is on hand with its stitched ‘Travis’ shirt.
For informality with a hint of elegance, go for a Grandad collar
Once upon a time, the Grandad — or banded — collar was the height of casual dressing. Literally your shirt without its removable collar, the style was worn only behind closed doors. Today, however, it has taken on a style of its own — and offers the wearer the chance to dress down while maintaining an air of elegance.
No-one walks this tightrope better than Favourbrook, whose collarless shirt in cotton-poplin has a flat front and a gently concealed placket. Sir Plus, too, has perfected the cut — and offers the style in multiple materials and fits. And Luca Faloni, known for its knitwear, has created a linen band collar shirt — perfect for effortless summer style.
Got your shirting sorted? Now let’s move onto your outerwear — and buy you a bespoke overcoat…
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