The Oldroyd: where sharing becomes fighting
Words: Holly Butler
Tom Oldroyd, the man that brought us the Polpo Empire and the sharing plate revolution, has arrived to save the bleak area of Islington’s Upper Street from culinary chain-mediocrity with a restaurant that bears his name. Word is that it’s set to beat that one time you named a sandwich after yourself, even if you did ingeniously combine each and every leftover from the fridge.
THE CUISINE
It’s a short menu, so all the more reason to try everything. Many of the plates feel infused with Polpo DNA, featuring a melting pot of continental flavours and a preference towards sharing. But with this level of quality on show, sharing could easily become fighting.
THE VIBE
The tiny passages between tables means a visit will usually include some accidental light frottage with strangers. However, combine this with the clean Scandi-esque interior styling and the spacing seems perfect for its buzzing local cafe and deli vibe. Top this with charming service and many run-ins with Tom himself and it’s the perfect shoulder-to-shoulder neighbourhood eatery.
THE FOOD
The pork belly and pea croquettas were nicely crisp and gooey, served with a truffle mayo that was earthy without being too rich; a condition most truffle infusions suffer with. The smoked cod’s roe and celery salt was the perfect light dish, offering summer radishes instead of bread for mopping. Meanwhile the giant lamb & almond meatballs, covered in a warming salsa romesco & pickled garlic, seemed more suited to a cold winters eve, not that we’re complaining.
THE DRINKS, Cocktail connoisseurs will be pleased to know the drinks are sourced from the experimental tipple masters, Hoxton’s White Lyan. They didn’t hold back. The wax-sealed Negroni is made by adding beeswax to gin then sealing and sitting in a sous-vide to infuse. The result is a rich, thick, waxy mouthfeel and a strong smoky punch. The perfect gent’s choice.
THE DAMAGE
No main costs more than £15. It’s easily a casual weekday splurge price. According to Tom himself, however, if you wish to go the whole hog, ordering each and every dish, will break £120.
CONCLUSION
Tom Oldroyd’s eponymous establishment is a self-titled success undoubtedly set to become a stalwart of North London’s dining scene. It’s a small venue with an even smaller kitchen that is big on accomplishment, character and charm. With an affordable and exciting brunch menu to follow, there is no doubt we will grace this cavern of cosiness again, moderate-to-large hangovers in tow.
BEST FOR
Cosy dates and lively brunches. A regular haunt for locals and a foodie venture for not-so-locals.
For more information, see www.oldroydlondon.com
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