The new rules of spring tailoring
Whether you're heading to the office or the altar, these style tips will have you looking fresh this season...
Words: Jonathan Wells
Ah, springtime. The light at the end of the wintry tunnel. How we’ve missed you. The brighter mornings, the warmer temperatures, the slightly less rubbish weather — all welcomed back with open arms. But our favourite thing about the year’s first season change? The style.
No longer are our outfits hidden, stashed away below layer upon layer of puffers and parkas. Spring sees us unzip, de-layer and shrug off our surplus coats and jackets — revealing the sharp suiting beneath. Because spring is suit season — the perfect time to wear these tailored mid-weight threads with cool confidence. But beware; springtime suiting has its own rules, so it pays to brush up…
Don’t be afraid of the three-piece suit
Don’t go getting cocky; winter’s not disappeared just yet. But that’s okay. As we live through the final frosty vestiges of the season, we’re handed a sartorial opportunity — to wear more suit. That’s right. Springtime is when the three-piece suit comes into its own, and you should embrace the extra buttons, material and swagger for everything they’re worth.
Just look how slick Dolce & Gabbana’s trim Martini fit looks. Woven from lustrous virgin wool-crépe, its the navy standard for three-piece suits — all slim lapels and lightly padded shoulders. For a touch more texture — it is still cold out there, after all — Hockerty’s tweed offering can be tailored to your measurements. Or, if you want a subtle check, there’s nothing better than Corneliani’s refined style.
Embrace double-breasted styles on the double
As with three-piece suits, double-breasted jackets also afford the wearer that little more protection from temperamental springtime weather-swings. But that’s not the main reason you should be wearing them — just a seasonal perk. No, you should be slipping on double-breasted suits because of their innate style appeal. Lashings of cool, even more buttons and a classic look that we just don’t see often enough.
But not to worry, because Gieves & Hawkes has done its Savile Row utmost to champion the style with this maroon flannel suit — an education in sophistication. If you’re more of a separates man, Oliver Spencer has a cracking unstructured blazer in a natty woollen basketweave. Or, for the full traditional togs, pick up Kingsman’s double-breasted Prince of Wales checked wool suit.
Ditch the tie and invest in a quality shirt
Of course, there’s more to tailoring than your suit. And, although we love the buttoned-up, neck-tied look, you can loosen your Double Windsor once spring has sprung. As the sun pokes its head back out, so should your neck and, dare we say it, even a sliver of chest. So leave your ties at home for the foreseeable and instead get heads turning with your choice of shirt. Remember, the higher the quality, the better you’ll look.
But we don’t need to tell you that. You’ve probably already got several Turnbull & Asser shirts hanging in your wardrobe. One more won’t hurt, we assure you — especially when it’s as novel as this puppytooth cotton-flannel shirt. Alternatively, head to Emma Willis for one of the best simple white shirts you’ll ever button up. Or, for a Mediterranean flavour — you are going open-collared, after all — why not pick up a navy cutaway-collared shirt from Ermenegildo Zegna?
Go for big patterns — and bigger colours
Or just throw the kitchen sink at it. You’re not going to overheat in spring, so you can experiment with textures. It’s bright and light enough to try on new colours without looking sarcastic. And you should definitely experiment with patterns — because tailoring is meant to be fun!
Just ask Clements and Church. We’ve picked out two of the tailor’s bolder designs here. The first is a dark blue check suit, with a windowpane pattern in an electric shade. The second is a burgundy melange offering in a Loro Piana wool silk blend and, while it’s called a ‘summertime suit’, there’s nothing wrong with getting it out of the wardrobe a couple of months early. Finally, we’ve come across all nautical with this bombastic, brazen blazer from Brunello Cucinelli. Happy suiting, gents.
Still feeling the chill? Here’s how British outerwear brand Shackleton came in from the cold…
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