Words: Josh Lee
If you’ve spent much time binging The Bear, the wildly popular FX smash-hit centred around a driven Chicago chef converting a sandwich shop into a Michelin hopeful, you will be fully aware of the ferocious rhythms of the professional kitchen, the comedy chops of handyman Neil Fak, and the unwavering drive of Jeremy Allen White’s Carmy Berzatto, the show’s lead figure. There’s the dogged determinism of Sydney, the ambitious chef de cuisine, and there’s also Richie, Carmy’s ‘cousin’ whose cynical edge sees its serrations softened as the episodes tick on.
Due to the cult success of the series, what was once the preserve of line cooks and industry insiders – the importance of reducing your stock; Birkenstocks or death; “BEHIND!!!” – has filtered its way into the zeitgeist. But, beyond spreading knowledge about the customs of working the line, The Bear has also made its renown as a show with a really good eye for clothes. There’s not so much bold, loud statements throughout, but, rather, pieces discreetly littered across scenes, creating menswear moments that have caused certain products – Carmy’s white T-shirt and his checkered wool coat, most notably – to be sold-out online.
With season three set for release this week, we take a look at the best style moments so far…
Squaring Things Away: Carmy’s NN.07 Jacket
Image: FX Networks
Let’s start from the top. From the get-go, Carmy makes it known that he’s a fan of investment pieces, as opposed to hypebeast drops; in the opening scene of the first episode, for instance, we see him exchange his collection of vintage Levi’s in order to pay for produce.
During the breezier scenes in Chicago, he tends to fall back on a wool jacket by Danish brand NN.07, a wonderful patchwork of autumnal tones (grey-blue, green, and a brown-orange). Its appearance in The Bear eventually led to it being sold out online (a second drop also vanished almost instantly) – but it’s set for a re-release any day now.
Back to Basics: Carmy’s Merz b. Schwanen T-Shirt
Image: FX Networks
Perhaps the peak style moment in the show, Carmy once again exhibits his unfussy style with a sweep of white T-shirts from Merz b. Schwanen. The snug fit, the crop and – rather miraculously, given the constant jumping of fire and sauces that surround him all day – the pristine condition in which this menswear essential remains has made it into a grail piece for fans of pared-down dressing.
The German brand is known for making its products on century-old loopwheelers, a practice that minimises tension and removes the need for side seams (meaning no twists) – moreover, aesthetically speaking, it creates a throwback look and feel.
Feeling Blue: Marcus and Luca’s Tonal Dressing
Image: FX Networks
Pastry chef Marcus is sent to Copenhagen – one of the greatest eating cities on Earth – to refine his handling of desserts, and, here, he stages under Luca, played by Will Poulter. What the costume department does particularly well in this episode is tap into the reality of what chefs in Denmark would actually wear at work; for example, Noma, Copenhagen’s flagship restaurant, requires its staff to wear a navy-heavy uniform, a style replicated by the duo as they work early mornings next to each other.
When it comes to Marcus, specifically, we like the tonal uniformity between his teal beanie, dark-grey apron and blue T-shirt.
Going Grey: Carmy’s Cableknit Sweater
Image: FX Networks
Here, some context probably helps. Carmy, throughout his career, has jumped from great restaurant to great restaurant across the world, and his skepticism over the sandwich shop that he’s inherited is clear – suggestive that there might always be the chance he could leave, despite his dedication.
Throughout the first season, he often keeps the same pieces on rotate, such as his white T-shirts and wool jacket. However, during season two, you get the feeling he’s more settled in Chicago, and so has started to take his clothes out of his suitcase, a sort of symbol of his commitment to the task of making his restaurant a success. As a result, the audience sees more of his wardrobe, including this sweater, courtesy of J.Crew. It not only adds a lighter tone to the character’s palette, but also provides some subtle texture via its cable-knit make-up.
Earning Her Stripes: Sydney’s Thom Browne Chef Jacket
Image: FX Networks
Sydney, played by breakout star Ayo Edebiri, rises from intern to a builder of menus and Carmy’s chief lieutenant. The real moment that solidifies her new leadership position is not when she steps up to her expediting station for the first, but earlier that day when Carmy gives her a pre-opening gift: a bespoke chef jacket by Thom Browne.
Clean and stripped-back in its white colourway, but given a bit of elan with the designer’s signature tricolour stripes banded around the biceps, it’s perhaps the one item in The Bear that best dovetails the world of the kitchen and that of understated – but considered – dressing.
Want more style pieces? These are the very best classic T-shirts every man should have in his wardrobe…
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