Words: Aobh O'Brien-Moody
The promise of year-round sea, sand and sunshine has been luring holidaymakers to Cyprus for decades. But delve beyond the all-inclusive flop-and-drop resorts and Brit-packed bars and you’ll discover the real Cyprus – the Cyprus that one Danish couple are endeavouring to draw attention to.
After visiting Cyprus for a friend’s wedding, seasoned travellers Emilie Green Novel and Aleksander Eng were smitten. The Agora is the result of their years-long love affair with the island, in particular the cobblestoned village of Lefkara, which is famed for its ancient lace-making tradition (it’s believed that the intricate lace tablecloth in Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’ was inspired by a visit to Lefkara).
It’s easy to understand their infatuation. Surrounded by olive groves, verdant hills and pristine coastline, Lefkara is nothing short of idyllic. When Aleks stumbled upon an abandoned building in the centre of the town, he immediately saw its potential. Serendipitously, it was for sale; three years later, in December of 2023, it was reborn as The Agora.
As Cyprus’ first independent boutique hotel, The Agora is breaking the mould. It comprises only 18 rooms (including three ‘Grand’ suites), each meticulously designed by Emilie, who drew inspiration from her extensive travels to conjure a refined yet laid back aesthetic: think pale oak parquet flooring, soft velvet furnishings and calming earth tones. A combination of bespoke and vintage furniture, sourced from around the island, imbues each room with a distinctive character, while locally-made designs – right down to tissue boxes rendered in Lefkara lace – ground the hotel in its unique environs. It’s a refreshing departure from the cookie cutter resorts that line much of Cyprus’ coast.
Agora translates to ‘gathering place’, which is exactly what Emilie and Aleks set out to create. Nowhere better encapsulates this motivation than the central courtyard, which contains a small terrazzo-tiled pool flanked by retro-inspired red and white sun loungers, the elegant mid-century-inspired bar and airy restaurant just beyond on either side. This is the hotel’s hub, where guests can lounge by day and sip cocktails by night, legs dangling over the pool edge and toes tracing the saltwater surface.
Its laid back vibe makes The Agora the sort of place you could easily while away your entire Cyprus stay – dining by the pool, enjoying long soaks in your freestanding tub, even squeezing in a spot of work in the stylish study, if you’re so inclined. But its surroundings beg to be explored, whether by bike – Aleks, a keen cyclist, leads bike rides along winding roads up into the picturesque Troodos mountains – or foot – olive grove and vineyard-lined hiking trails snake through the lush landscape just beyond the town. For something more sedentary, the chalky white rocks of Governor’s Beach, a short drive from the hotel, provide the perfect base for a lazy morning picnic followed by a refreshing dip in the sea. And don’t leave without properly exploring Lefkara itself, a bustling centre steeped in history.
Key to The Agora’s ethos is balance. Wine tasting evenings that showcase local producers exist in tandem with yoga and brunch sessions; the hotel restaurant Novél serves hearty veg-packed salads alongside gourmet burgers and stone-baked pizzas (the Spicy Pep is the stuff of local legend); your day can be as active or as languorous as you like. This is barefoot luxury at its best, where you set the pace.
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