Words: Gentleman's Journal
As the warmer part of the surf season hits the UK we look at some of the most dangerous, beautiful and exhilarating spots to catch a wave. These are the 10 places you need to surf before you die…
CLOUD 9 – SIARGAO ISLAND, THE PHILIPPINES
Siargao and the surrounding Islands are gorgeous in their own right, but for consistent and perfect waves Cloud 9 is world class. With thick, hollow barrels coming like clockwork it is the ideal location to hone your skills – thrilling enough for experienced surfers yet manageable for those a little less acclimatised.
SUPERTUBES – JEFFREY’S BAY, SOUTH AFRICA
Long-walled waves at Jeffrey’s bay give ample opportunity to those of strong ability to take on challenging swell. Fuelled by reefs and riding a high pocket these are best suited to agile shortboarders able to stand up to rides in excess of 1 kilometre long – just watch out for the Great Whites, an ever-present menace since 1989.
MAVERICKS – HALF MOON BAY, USA
After storms the swell routinely crests around 25 feet and has been known to reach 80! Renowned as a hazardous surf destination, its winter contest is legendary, with surfline describing the temperamental fast left-hander as a ‘short lived explosion of hell and spitfire’.
CLOUDBREAK – TAVARU ISLAND, FIJI
A heart-shaped resort of Fiji, Tavarua is encapsulated within a sharp coral reef, making it an ideal location for fishing, scuba and snorkling activities as well as surfing. Along with restaurants, Cloudbreak makes up one of the Island’s two world-class breaks. As with many tropical reef-pass breaks, it shallows as the barrel progresses and is known as one of the most challenging waves in the world.
MONTANITA BEACH – ECUADOR
One of Latin America’s prime surf locations, Montanita attracts surfers from around the globe and has earned a place on the international surfing circuit. Monstrous waves are a rarity but the swell is difficult to master. This, coupled with a party atmosphere and a melting pot of cultures, makes Montanita one of the liveliest surf experiences around.
GHOST TREE – PEBBLE BEACH, USA
Part of Pescarado Point off stylish Pebble Beach, the infamous surf around Ghost Tree derives its name from a white cypress tree which grows locally. The waves are as gnarly as the trees here, claiming the life of the legendary monster-wave surfer Peter Davi in 2007.
TOFINO – VANCOUVER ISLAND, CANADA
Canada’s surf capital, Tofino, presents 35km of surfable beach, room for boarders of all abilities to tuck in. Cool but manageable temperatures of around 10°C make it an all-season Mecca, but the winter is best, with three main areas to choose from: Cox Bay, Chesterman Beach and Long Beach (located in the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve).
CABO MATAPALO – COSTA RICA
Costa Rica in general is home to a multitude of fantastic surf beaches, but on the tip of the Osa Peninsula sits the small town of Cabo Matapalo, home to some of the country’s hidden secrets: Corcovado National Park, Golfo Dulce and Isla del Can. Large swells are frequently ushered in, breaking over a rocky bottom suited to experienced surfers only.
THE BUBBLE – FUERTEVENTURA, THE CANARY ISLANDS
One of the best-known destinations for surfers, Fuerteventura is notoriously crowded on weekends. But its hollow, powerful waves and holding swell are reason enough to look past this. Although the summer is flat the reef break and rocky bottom make it a dangerous but thrilling winter ride.
PIPELINE – BANZAI BEACH, HAWAII
A cavernous reef is submerged off Banzai beach, creating a natural bubble which forces the wave to break, whilst jagged lava formations present a myriad of dangerous obstacles for surfers to overcome. That being said, A-frame waves from the left, the backdoor pipe to the right and progressively larger waves further out on the second and third reefs make this an exhilarating playground for surfing’s elite.
By Dan Cater
Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?
Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.
