Words: Josh Lee
Like cashed-up Como, affluent Amalfi, or moneyed Monaco, St. Moritz has long worn a reputation as a recreation ground for those with hinterland-like Coutts accounts. The luxurious ski destination lays claim to a somewhat remarkable level of sophistication, with its diamond-clear lake and valleys that look like they’ve escaped from a winter edition of Tatler, and the great and good – from Sophia Loren to Gianni Agnelli – who have frequented here have been as integral to the landscape as the Corviglia resort.
If you happen to find yourself in this neck of the mountains in the coming weeks, here are the finest places to rest, the hotspots to find some sustenance and a sharpener, and the most entertaining things to see…
Where to check-in
So, you’ve packed your padded down jacket and laced-up your Moncler snow boots – but where to drop off your Rimowa? Badrutt’s Palace has been the default pillow of choice for the uppercrust since its concierge desk opened in 1896 – but, for a bolthole with a more contemporary, refined aesthetic, plump for a few nights at the Kulm (which happens to be the oldest of its kind in the area, even if the airy, lightwood interiors may speak of a more of-the-moment look). Though the views are remarkable – south-facing rooms look on to Lake St. Moritz; those facing north see Piz Nair – it is the gastronomy that’s the real draw: the K is overseen by Mauro Colagreco and replicates dishes that are created at the three-star chef’s globally renowned Mirazur restaurant.
Alternatively, Suvretta House, another one of those palace-scale hideaways, offers direct access to Corviglia; for space in which to kick back, book the Tower Suite, and reboot with a ‘Swiss Bodydetox’ treatment at the in-house spa.
The tables to book
There are those who jet to St. Moritz to trim some fat and tighten their torsos when taking to the slopes – then there are those who handle their trip with a more bacchanalian touch. At Café Belmont, a stamp-sized bar anchored by checkerboard floors, flights of great wine are the star attraction, running from Swiss whites to Spanish reds, all best soaked up with the selection of sharing plates.
When visiting Winter Paradiso, which appears like a majestic set of bleachers in the mountains, we’re quite fond of the lobster roll with seaweed butter, green apple and spicy mayonnaise, followed by the dinosaur-style côte de boeuf, and the music deck makes for a spirited, lively atmosphere. For later in the day, The St. Moritz Sky Bar, all clean lines and glass walls, offers respite from the ubiquitous wood-bedecked interiors and is a fine place from which to enjoy a sundowner.
What to do
Of course, the black runs are likely what you came to town for, but if you’re feeling weak at the knees and your appetite for the slopes has reached a limit, we’re always for the idea of going off-piste for a day or two. Consider the 40-minute drive to Muzeum Susch, not just for its envelope-pushing exhibitions, performances and experimental presentations, but also for its specular setting: a mountainside monastery from the 12th century in which architects Chasper Schmidlin and Lukas Voellmy excavated to create the exhibition spaces, some of which have the feel of a subterranean grotto. Petrolheads should certainly check out The Ice, a recently launched motorshow that brings a spread of heritage four-wheelers to the frosty terrains of Switzerland (last season’s event saw a Jaguar C Type and a Ferrari 275 GTB Alluminio). Or, to escape from the escape, the Glacier Express, one of the continent’s premiere train journeys, snakes through 91 tunnels and over 200 bridges across idyllic scenery, and can take you as far as Zermatt if you so wish.
Want more Alps content? Here’s everything you need to know before visiting Verbier…
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