Sexy Fish: opulent doesn’t quite cut it

Hands up if you haven’t heard about Sexy Fish. Didn’t think so. With a name that splits critics more than marmite; Richard Caring has created one of the most talked about new openings of recent times. It could also have something to do with the cool £15 million supposedly spent renovating the prime spot in Berkeley Square. With waterfall walls and 13ft silicone crocodiles, it’s clear from the outset that subtlety is left at the door. But this no-holds-barred approach may have just gifted Richard and Caprice their magnum opus.

The menu loosely follows contemporary Asian seafood sharing dishes, but don’t dismiss the farmyard friends. They make up some of the evenings highlights. Expect oysters, caviar, lobster and sashimi, robatas and skewers. A few plates felt familiar from other such flashy Asian-tapas seafood joints (see: Kurobuta and Ramusake). However the team here had taken a surprisingly more minimal approach to the dishes, instead focusing on quality and execution, which they have in spades. Minimising faff and maximising flavour.

Opulent doesn’t quite cut it… with this opening prepare for wall-to-wall extravagance. A shoal of Frank Gehry Fish Lamps are the biggest eye catcher, dancing above the red stone bar and flanked by some rather pert bronze mermaids from Damien Hirst. Top it all off with ceiling panels by Vanity Fair editor Michael Roberts and live coral reef tanks in the private dining area. The setting alone is an ego massage for the upwardly mobile as trophy wives play A-lister bingo with the neighbouring tables. Luckily the ambience is much more relaxed than expected. No snooty waiters, just charming and thoughtful service – Alexandra in particular helped us handle the extensive menu and insisted on giving us a third dessert… who could argue?

Truffle can often be an obnoxious and overbearing addition used to confirm to tasteless oligarchs that their dinner is indeed expensive. However in the tuna tatare it is a footnote more than a main attraction, shining through the fatty meat which arrived as a paste for spreading on crunchy lotus chips. The smoked eel came as big meaty chunks topped with a dusting of frozen foie gras, sticky bbq sauce and glutinous rice. The prawn tempura is woven with a light golden batter that soaks up the accompanying dashi broth. However for those who aren’t fans of fish, firstly don’t go a restaurant called “Sexy Fish”, and secondly, if you do, choose the lamb cutlets, rich and intense spicy sweet Korean style goujuchang glaze.

The desserts take no backseat here – they’re some of the most interesting around. The Yuzu marshmallow is wonderfully tart and sugary for those who like a sweet that bites back. Meanwhile the raspberry soft serve ascends the humble ice cream van staple to the most grandiose form of build-your-own dessert.

The cocktails are as glam as the rest of the place. The Shipwrecked is the pinnacle of Instagram fodder; served in a treasure chest, message in a bottle style, and accompanied by edible sand. After cocktails the sommelier offered brilliant wine suggestions from Germany, coolly managing our changing criteria throughout. End the night with a glass of their brilliantly light Yuzushu for a refreshing change from dessert wine.

The price tag is pretty hefty but most here won’t be looking at the prices anyway. When considering the outstanding food served surrounded by the décor of an art gallery and the clientele of a film premiere, the costs do not feel at all inflated. Stick to the skewers, sharing plates and a glass of wine and you could escape with plenty of pennies left over.

It may be a magnet for the upper echelon but Sexy Fish is one of the most exciting high-end spots to land in London for some time. It’s a big green onyx antithesis of the minimal restaurant designs swarming London and we love it. It’s all the hype and glam and celeb watching of the Chiltern, but with a standard of food that excels the rest in its class. It doesn’t need our approval to be a success, but it has it wholeheartedly.

Special occasions or dressy diners with deep pockets and good connections.

For more, visit www.sexyfish.com

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