In Paris Anthony Vaccerello brought Yves Saint Laurent to life
Anthony Vaccarello presented his Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection for Saint Laurent at the close of Paris Fashion Week
Words: Zak Maoui
Anthony Vaccarello doesn't do things quietly. The Saint Laurent creative director flew out fashion press and influencers to the Moroccan desert in 2022 to stage his Spring/Summer '23 menswear show, while last year he turned a show space into a nightclub in Berlin. Before that there was a show on the windy shores of Malibu. And yesterday, after whispers swept across the Gallic capital, Vaccerello surprised everyone by dropping his Autumn/Winter 2024 collection at the tail-end of Paris Fashion Week, almost stealing the show from Louis Vuitton which was staging Nicholas Ghesquière's tenth anniversary collection for the brand.
The show, which happened under night fall, marked a return to the concrete rotunda Bourse de Commerce. A piece of Parisian history, the circular space, which is a former corn store turned stock exchange, appropriately houses the Pinault Collection, the works of art collected by Francois Pinault, Kering and Saint Laurent owner. The show began with models exiting a tunnel entrance that was line with calla lilies, anemones and orchids, which was a nod to the historic shows of the late Yves Saint Laurent.
At first sight it seemed Vaccarello has taken a step away from what we've seen in past, where pussy bow blouses, high-shine satin tops and sheer shirting had taken centre stage. Big wool coats and wide-shouldered tailoring was the order of the day, and models marched out in suits that were reminiscent of those worn in 1980s boardrooms. Classic, double-breasted suits informed the opening looks, strong shouldered and cut to fit body. But these soon became a little more fluid, which was intentional. The masculine suits became more louche, more fluid. They were akin to Giorgio Armani’s 1980s suits, which made their way onto the likes of American Gigolo Julian Kay (Richard Gere) and later Julia Roberts. But they were also more in keeping with the gender-blending design that Vaccarello is all about. Pieces were cut from crepe georgette lined with satin, without any reinforcement, reminiscent of the house's latest women's collection. Mauve, chocolate, tan, and dusty orange, rose du bois peppered the closing looks of the AW'24 line, mirroring the looks in the women's AW'24 collection.
Yves Saint Laurent himself was present in the collection. Famously a specs wearer, the sharply suited looks were paired with square framed lenses. The broad shouldered, wider-legged tailoring that he wore throughout the Seventies was present, while his own movement from suit lover to more louche dresser was reflected in the move from sharp ensembles tailleurs to louche models in Vaccarello's collection.
Vaccarello's slight move to old school masculine sophistication mirrored what else has been going on in menswear. A return to masculinity seemed apparent at the men's Autumn/Winter 2024 shows, which largely took place in January. Suits and ties (Wall Street neck ties done up tightly) were everywhere, whether it was at Prada and Gucci, or cult Korean label Auralee.
Want more fashion content? Read up on the The biggest menswear moments from Milan Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo
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