Restaurant Review: THIRTY-SIX at Dukes

There are few things more special than thinking you’ve discovered a real hidden gem in London. Regardless of it’s popularity and no matter how many times we turn down into the cobbled courtyard of Dukes Hotel we still get that little buzz of excitement that we really are entering our own little jewel of seclusion in the capital. Whether you’re staying at the beautiful boutique hotel itself, enjoying the famous Martinis at the main bar or simply passing by, it’s worth a visit to the acclaimed Thirty Six by Nigel Mendham restaurant downstairs…

THE CUSINE, Traditional English fare is the name of the game here and with Michelin-starred chef Nigel Mendham heading up the kitchen you know it’s going to be the best of British on your plate. Putting a thoroughly modern twist on firm old-fashioned favourites, the presentation is faultless and the taste just as good.

THE ATMOSPHERE, It’s hardly the most buzzing atmosphere in town, but then it’s not exactly trying to be – at least we don’t think that’s their aim. The decor is both elegant and refined – think large antique silver plates and cutlery, white table clothes and soft chairs in restrained colours. Some might find the winding walk down through the hotel and into the basement restaurant slightly disconcerting and although it’s nice to find somewhere quiet to eat in London, we couldn’t help but find it a little sterile.

THE FOOD, Quintessentially English dishes are served up with an unusual modern twist and stunning refined presentation. Mendham strikes a great balance between classical flavours which are all meticulously prepared, and additional contemporary flair to produce both visually stunning and delicious tasting dishes. Awarded 3 AA Rosettes for culinary excellence, you could probably pick just about anything on the menu and not be disappointment – we high recommend the white crab, avocado & pink grapefruit starter and the Yorkshire venison for main which comes with celeriac, barley pearls and black pudding.

THE DRINKS, The wine cellar is excellent, and the list is endless so if you know you’re wine you are sure to be thrilled by the selection on offer, but if you’re not so up to scratch on what’s what in the world of wine then simply ask – the waiters know their stuff.

THE DAMAGE, Currently operating an set menu system, they are currently offering £49.00 for 2 courses or £60.00 for 3 courses including coffee or tea.

THE CONCLUSION, Whilst it’s hardly going to top any ‘coolest restaurant in town’ lists any time soon, it’s hard to fault it when it comes to the actual food. The food and service in Thirty Six are first class, but we won’t be hurrying back for a fun dinner with friends here anytime soon.

BEST FOR, Special occasions with your other half or meals with parents or in-laws.

Dukes Hotel, 35-36 Saint James’s Place, London SW1A 1NY – dukeshotel.com

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