Under the influence: Presidential style over the decades
As the eyes of an ever-watchful world fall on the next US president, we ask if the clothes maketh the man, or if power dressing really is a myth
Words: Finlay Renwick
One of Barack Obama’s most talked about presidential decisions occurred in late August a decade ago. Addressing the country, and the world, during a televised press conference to discuss the threat that ISIS posed to global security, the 44th president of the United States wore a suit in a shade of light tan. Given the severity of the issue, Obama’s Republican detractors accused his colour choice as “unpresidential”. GQ called it, “A sad tan suit,” while The Atlantic suggested that his casual tailoring was a “distraction”.
Obama... didn’t really say anything, and soon reverted back to a rotation of sensible navy single-breasted suits and country club-appropriate polo shirts paired with chinos and nondescript trainers. Everyone quickly moved on.
With the inauguration of Donald Trump fast approaching, the new(ish) president’s fashion choices will inevitably lead to some chatter. Trump, who favours bespoke suits by Brioni and Brooklyn-based Martin Greenfield, cut in the 1980s capitalist shark style with big trousers, wide lapels and a giant red tie, is unlikely to be sworn in wearing new season Rick Owens.
Barack Obama opted for pilot-meets-varsity chic during this appearance in 2011. Image: Getty
Meanwhile, outgoing president Joe Biden (A little-known fact: his middle name is Robinette) was inaugurated in Ralph Lauren and is rarely seen without his trusty Ray-Ban Aviators, opting for an all-American policy when it comes to his personal wardrobe.
Does what the leader of the US wears have any real bearing on their work in office? According to some corners, it does. In a 2020 study, David O’Connell, an associate professor of political science at Dickinson College in Pennsylvania, wrote that, “better-dressed presidents are more likely to be better presidents since they will avoid the kinds of negativity that have historically greeted presidents who dressed more informally.”
As part of his research, O’Connell highlighted the clever ways that a president might use their clothes as a tool for influence. For instance, George W. Bush, despite being from a political dynasty himself, connected with rural voters by dressing in blue collar workwear and western clothing.
President Kennedy and his brother-in-law Peter Lawford aboard the United States Coast Guard yacht ‘Manitou’ 1962. Image: Getty
Even President Kennedy, one of the all-time men’s style icons, updated his collegiate Harvard-into-congressman uniform of Shetland knits and roomy sports coats. In time, he would come to favour soft-shouldered Italian tailoring in muted colours coupled with narrow ties, along with a weekend-on-Nantucket nautical uniform of pale chinos, knit polo shirts, Harrington jackets and Clubmaster shades.
Given the amount of eyeballs glued to the most important job in the world, it’s unsurprising that a president might succumb to a little bout of vanity every now and then. There’s a great – and potentially apocryphal – 1993 story about Bill Clinton during his time in office, dubbed ‘Hairgate.’ It’s said that the then-president demanded half of the Los Angeles international airport runway to be closed while he enjoyed a $200 haircut by the celebrity stylist Christophe while still aboard Air Force One before it took off. Clinton also made sure he looked the part in a NASA-issued bomber jacket and Bushwick embroidered trucker cap.
Reagan’s lounge core sweatpants-and-tie combination was usually reserved for Air Force One flights. Image: Getty
Another memorable Air Force One moment featured Ronald Reagan, who accidentally channelled a now-contemporary mixture of tailoring-meets-sportswear when he was photographed on the presidential jet in 1984 during a trip to Iowa. The chief was pictured wearing a two-tone poplin business shirt, silk tie, polished leather Oxford shoes and... grey sweatpants on his bottom half – a preferred airport outfit in order to prevent his suit trousers from creasing. For his off-duty looks, Ron was fond of Americana, a callback to his former life as a cowboy-for-hire in the golden age of Hollywood westerns.
Levi’s jeans were also a favourite of Reagan’s (Jimmy Carter is credited as being the first president to popularise off-duty denim) as were white T-shirts and tinted shades, along with the occasional Stetson if the photo opportunity was right. Despite looking sharp in Madison Avenue-adjacent tailoring during his day-to-day duties, Reagan was also a sucker for a fat Windsor knot, which hasn’t aged quite so well.
Matching his personality, Richard Nixon mostly wore a grey suit which, given that television was broadcast in black and white at the time, was a style faux pas that didn’t translate well to screen, but was still one of the less severe mistakes made during his run in the Oval Office.
George Washington may have been on to something when he said, “Do not conceive that fine clothes make fine men any more than fine feathers make fine birds”. With a couple of notable exceptions, most presi- dents have tended to toe the party line. A serious job requires serious, and often fairly boring, clothes.
Ronald Reagan is brown but not out at the start of his presidency in 1981. Image: Getty
Notable exceptions include Teddy Roosevelt, who channelled his swashbuckling, Amazon-exploring past with a natty cravat and safari jacket. Jimmy Carter favoured relaxed suits in tweeds and light wools, with a chunky shawl collar cardigan during DC winters.
While Dubya opted for golf-course attire, no self-respecting leader of the free world ever exited office without a photo of them wading in a remote body of water, decked out in waders, a utility vest, wraparound shades and a weather-beaten baseball cap.
If there was ever a true #menswear president, then it was Chester Arthur, the vice president who took office after the assassination of President Garfield in 1881. Nicknamed “The Dude President,” (dude was a synonym for ostentatious at the time), as well as “The Gentleman Boss,” Arthur spent the equivalent of $2m renovating The White House and celebrated his ascendency to the seat of power by blowing $15,000 of today’s money in Brooks Brothers. The writer Gore Vidal called him, “the most fastidious and fashionable president”. An endorsement if one was ever needed.
Power dress your way to the top with our pick of the best suits to buy...
Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?
Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.
