Words: Charlie Gardiner-Hill
Patrick Grant was born in Edinburgh and once represented Scotland in U18 and U19 national rugby sides, before a shoulder injury cut short his career. He is the creative director of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons and, since taking over the house in 2005, is credited with turning the business around. He also re-launched E. Tautz and Sons as a ready-to-wear label in 2009, for which he won the Menswear Designer Award at the British Fashion Awards in 2010. He now lives in East London.
What inspired the new Affligem ‘Knight’s Coat and Tails’ collection?
The attire worn by Affligem’s six founding knights inspired the Affligem ‘Knight’s Coat and Tails’, research into the shape of the armour to the tunic. We took the idea of the chain mail and created a modern jacquard woven fabric, which looked like chain mail, and then cut it into a contemporary two-piece suit but with a frock coat.
You’re known for being quite experimental at E. Tautz, did it take some experimenting to bring 11th Century dress into the modern day?
We pride ourselves on being experimental at E. Tautz and we spend a large amount of time exploring different eras, times and places looking for influences, in order to create clothes that are new and contemporary. References for recent collections at E. Tautz have taken their influences from around the world, including the Far East and Middle East. For this design, I just find it incredible that we’ve re-created something that was made out of steel, with actual cloth!
Why is 11th century tailoring still relevant today, are there any bits of it that still remain in modern tailoring?
There’s plenty to suggest tailoring from the 11th century is still prevalent today. Custom suits are designed to move on. For instance; slim sleeves, skirt from the waist and slim lead, which still appears in the silhouette of modern menswear. Strangely though, from our research, 11th century dress was very contemporary, compared with designs in the 14th and 15th century.
Other than your own, what’s your favourite tailor on Savile Row?
Well, it’s hard to say as I’m a fan of so many tailors on Savile Row. I’d have to say any designs by anyone in the Savile Row Bespoke Association, but I usually prefer the family-run tailoring houses.
Other than Savile Row, what’s your favourite place to shop?
I’m very lucky, I usually never buy ‘normal’ clothes. The only thing I ever buy besides clothes is sports kit, which is mainly cycling-related, such as chains. I’m pretty lucky that I never have to shop anywhere other than Savile Row.
You wrote your thesis on Burberry’s brand revitalisation, do you think Christopher Bailey is overpaid?
I prefer not to comment. I’m not fully aware of Christopher’s spheres of influence, therefore I’m not in a position to comment I’m afraid.
Who or what would you say influences your personal style?
Every well dressed man in history at some point. From the Duke of Windsor to mods, I’ve dragged my personal influences from everyone. My dad was also a big influence on me too. He was a sharp suit wearer.
How do you keep on top of your daily routine?
I love my job. I wake up early, work long hours and try to keep my brain in shape by undertaking plenty of exercise.
Five pieces of clothing, accessories and items that you never go without when travelling?
This is reasonably easy. Every bag I ever pack contains a pale blue shirt, navy tie, navy crew neck jumper, grey flannel suit and black Oxford shoes.
Your perfect weekend?
Waking up in my cottage in the Cotswolds, followed by a six hour bike ride and finishing up with a few pints in the Falkland’s Arms. Then I’d play board games with friends on the Sunday.
If you could make a suit for one living person, who would it be and why?
Boris Johnson. He deliberately enjoys being scruffy; so I’d like to make Boris the worst suit he has ever worn. Then he could wear it to its potential – keeping up his ‘untidiness’ motto.
Both your parents are Scottish and still live there, what are your views on Scottish independence?
This is a tricky one. I feel like Scotland is a united country with a real identity, however, I believe the issue of Scottish independence has been quite divisive for families and communities. After the vote, I hope we’ll reach unity again.
Patrick Grant has created an 11th Century suit for premium beer brand Affligem Beer in the build up to London Fashion Week.
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