Words: Josh Lee
In a stunning move, Swiss luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe has revealed a new suite of timepieces, which many in the horology world were expecting for 2023. Eight watches have been launched in the new release, including a trio of tricked out Nautilus variations, one of the most revered and desired lines of wrist armour in the world.
Nautilus Ref. 5811
Perhaps the flagship among them is the Ref. 5811, the successor to the cult-hit Ref. 5711, which was discontinued in 2021 and is one of the most marketable pieces within watch circles, reselling for nearly triple its original retail price. (A limited-edition of that model, which featured a blue dial by Tiffany & Co., was sold for $6.5 million, in 2021.) Key points include an upgrade from stainless steel to white gold (a break from a nearly 50-year tradition within the Swiss house), a size change from 40mm to 41 mm, and its blue sunburst dial features a black fade around its edges.
Nautilus Ref. 5712
Moreover, the case comprises two segments – a throwback to the original Nautilus from 1976 – and there’s a brand-new pull-out piece lever system which facilitates the winding stem to be pulled from the side where the dial is placed. A sapphire-crystal case back rounds off the look.
Up next is the new Ref. 5712 Nautilus, made with moon phases, an analog date, and a power-reserve indicator, and is aesthetically defined by its rose-gold case and bracelet, and a brown sunburst dial. The case, which is water resistant to 60 meters, the link bracelet and the octagonal bezel all beautifully offset satin and polished finishes.
Nautilus Ref. 7118
Nautilus Ref. 7118
Rounding out the Nautilus line is the Ref. 7118 Nautilus Joaillerie, which is given a warm quality having been lovingly festooned with 68 baguette-cut spessartite gems, 11 of which act as the hour markers on the bezel; perhaps most remarkable about this arrangement is that the gems show off a double-tone gradation of cognac hues fading into champagne tones.
Ref. 5373P
Ref. 5935A Worldtime Flyback
Nautilus Ref. 7118
The bracelets of all three Nautilus pieces have a lockable adjustment system that can be adjusted by 2mm or 4mm, and there’s a foldover clasp secured with four independent catches.
Though the Nautiluses have perhaps stolen the show during this unveiling, the remaining five models are still significant pieces of wristwear. Among them includes the Ref. 5373P, a blend of a split-seconds mono pusher chronograph and a perpetual calendar, all of which is designed to be worn on the right-hand wrist, Patek Phillipe’s first chronograph in recent years to be crafted for left-handers. A sleek sporty quality is also given, thanks to a black calfskin strap that has an embossed textile texture and red stitching.
Ref. 7968 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow”
Elsewhere, the design of the new self-winding stainless-steel Ref. 5935A Worldtime Flyback chronograph is defined by a “carbon” motif in the middle of the dial, and the bezel of the Ref. 7968 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph is doused with a variety of rainbow baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires.
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