Words: Justin Hast
In 2005, Luc Pettavino created Only Watch with the goal of raising funds for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy (a terrible disease that afflicted his son), and, every two years, watchmakers create one-off pieces to be auctioned at the sale, which is now conducted by Christie's. You may remember this event as one that saw a unique Patek Philippe set a new record for the most expensive watch in the world, at 31,000,000 CHF. This year, on 5 November, in Geneva, there will be 62 watches for sale – so, to help you choose which to bid on, I’ve picked my top five.
First up is a lesser-known independent: Andersen Genève. A proud supporter of Only Watch since the debut edition, in 2005, when it was the very first lot auctioned, Andersen Genève, this year, is presenting an exceptional version of the acclaimed Jumping Hours, launched in 2020 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary.
This unique piece combines a platinum case (and pink-gold crown) with a singular dial of pure jade stone, delicately cut to a thickness of just 0.4mm and worked to a perfectly flat, flawless finish. This requires incredible skill to create without breaking it: at its thinnest point, where the hour wheel is recessed beneath it, the dial is just 0.15mm thick. The effect is bewitching. Seen from afar, the dial seems a deep, alluring black, forming a rich contrast with the minutes hand, chapter ring and brand logo in powdered pink-gold. A closer inspection, however, reveals the veins and details running through the jade. It is a watch that showcases the minimalistic elegance of the Jumping Hours, but in the most luxurious way.
Next, a name you will absolutely be familiar with – Audemars Piguet, which has created a Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked was first unveiled in 2022 as part of the celebrations for the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, but this one-off creation comes in a 41mm white ceramic case with a matching bracelet that’s been enhanced with – and contrasted by – the mainplate and bridges in a vivid blue hue.
The movement's Openworked architectural design gives centre stage to the flying tourbillon cage and the rhodium-toned gear train, both of which add depth and a nice visual effect. Each component has been finished with refined haute horlogerie decorations, including ‘traits tirés’, circular and sunray brushing, snailing, and polished chamfers. The satin brushing on the V-angles can be admired on both sides of the watch and reflects the meticulous work of the artisans behind it. This Only Watch edition comes with the addition of a blue inner bezel and white-gold hour-markers and hands, both of which are filled with luminescent coating for optimum visibility in the dark. A special oscillating weight, in 22K gold, has also been coloured with the same blue and rhodium tones for a sleek and modern look.
Then, there’s possibly the hottest independent maker of the last few years: F P Journe. This timepiece, the Chronomètre Furtif, is equipped with the new calibre 1522 in 18K rose-gold, and also debuts a case and bracelet in tantalum, an incredibly hard material to work with.
The Chronomètre Furtif takes its name from the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you, as the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light, whereas the moon phase and power reserve indications are integrated into the movement and are visible only on the back. It is, therefore, a watch whose indications can be enjoyed only by its owner. This is top-tier stuff and will, with little doubt, sell into the millions.
Rexhep Rexhepi, the golden boy of the watch world, is fresh off a collaboration with Louis Vuitton, but many think his Only Watch Chronomètre Antimagnétique may be the best thing he has ever produced. A precision wristwatch bearing all of its maker’s hallmarks, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique is protected from magnetism by a Faraday cage surrounding the hand-finished movement.
Furthermore, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique is both a tribute to historical antimagnetic chronometers and a practical timekeeper for modern life, in which electronics containing powerful magnets are part of the everyday. The dial is inspired by the ‘scientific’ dials of historical chronometers, and its design is also a subtle nod to the watch’s purpose: the alternating blocks along the hour scale are an abstract representation of the opposite polarities of a magnetic field. Like the great wristwatch chronometers that place function above form, this piece features an antimagnetic stainless-steel case – one of the rare-metal cases made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop.
And, finally, what would Only Watch be without a powerhouse collaboration? H. Moser and MB&F have come together to create a Streamliner Pandamonium. A fusion of Moser’s breakthrough sports watch and MB&F’s penchant for fun and artistic works, this one-off features a new movement entirely, as well as a miniature panda DJ to ensure things keep in step.
Want more watch content? We question if the Tudor Pelagos FXD is a modern-day Milsub…
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