Lifestyle -- 2 days ago
One Canada Square are bringing the ‘City Boy’ breakfast back to the square mile
Words: Holly Butler
A number of restaurants across London are beginning to combine New York’s boozy brunch culture with the classic city boy breakfast. The formula is simple and as successful as its target market: modern twists on greasy fry-ups accompanied by as much booze as one can handle. After all, there’s nothing like some early morning alcoholism to kickstart a 12 hour day.
One of the latest eateries to take on this mid-morning merriment is One Canada Square. At first it might seem a rather classy setting for such an affair, the venue as grandiose as you’d expect given its central city location. The interior, featuring art deco furnishings, a baby grand piano and deep green marble surfaces, seems at first to be pretty overdone, but the crudeness wears off once you get settled in.
Surprisingly, the novel concept is drawing a crowd of coolly casual guests rarely seen within the suited-and-booted confines of the city, their prescence has helped nurture a relaxed breakfast service – something the city has historically been short of.
First, you choose your poison. The bottomless drinks list names Prosecco, Raspberry Bellinis and a Bloody Mary among its temptresses. The latter hits with an appropriately ferocious, peppery heat that will quickly have you recovered from last night’s Tequila hangover.
The menu is an odd combination of hearty brunch and substantial lunch options, that didn’t disappoint. Although the meat dishes were suitably extravagant, it was clear to see that the seafood was the stand-out performance. It probably has something to do with the kitchen walking the stone’s throw to Billingsgate Market to source all their fish.
You’ll have to take me on my word that eggs Benedict is perfection on a plate when accompanied by tempura fried soft-shell crab, cooked in a light batter and served with a jalapeño hollandaise. It may sound out of the ordinary, but then again, all of the best things are.
Those looking for something reminiscent of their beloved 90s fry up, should go for the One Canada Square Breakfast. It’s a meaty affair and the chefs have re-invented the Holy Trinity here, swapping bacon, sausage and eggs for chorizo, pancetta and fried duck egg. It’s a bold call but one they pull off with aplomb.
I would comment on the desserts but after losing count of the glasses of Prosecco, I’m not even certain if we had one, and if you’re going to do it properly you’ll need to cancel that 11am.
Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?
Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.
