New & Lingwood’s AW22 collection shows the soft side of tailoring

Words: Josh Lee

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At first glance, the ‘new’ of New & Lingwood can come across as a bit of a red herring. Because, for nearly 160 years, ever since husband-and-wife duo Elisabeth New and Samuel Lingwood formed the eponymous venture, the storied menswear brand has been the go-to label for all those seeking to style themselves out in the best of British tailoring.

Launched in 1865, this fine maker of ready-to-wear and bespoke shirts, hosiery, and prized footwear has showcased an unparalleled approach to quality that has underpinned its success for more than a century, working alongside some of the finest tailors, mills, shoemakers and weavers found within these shores; using only the toughest of tweed, the most luscious of leathers, and the smoothest of silks; and upholding a reverential in-store service that some of the world’s finest five-star stays can barely conceive of.

But equally as splendid as the majestic materials that are used by New & Lingwood is the rich history that it has bore witness to, from its start as the outfitter to Eton College scholars to its expansion on Jermyn Street in 1922; its rise from the ashes as it was forced to relocate nearby when the original storefront was levelled during the Blitz; and its continuation throughout the 20th and 21st centuries as one of the most coveted menswear brands in the world that has served generations of tastemakers, the red carpet’s great and good, and generations of British royalty.

Today, the brand continues to draw upon its century-old expertise in craftsmanship and tailoring – maintaining, for example, its decades-long relationships with the same workrooms and mills, such as silk weavers in Sudbury and Fox Brothers & Co in Somerset – and still looks to the same materials that have laid the foundation for its success: 100 per cent silk, fine wool, cashmere and cotton-based velvet continue to form the foundations of the label’s range.

Yet, like other heritage brands that aim to continue plying their trade for decades to come, innovation and modernisation are as equally important to the New & Lingwood ethos as the traditions on which its renown is built.

As such, not only are materials used with sustainability at the forefront, but cuts, fits and patterns are expressed through a lens more suited to the modern world – a timeless, sophisticated style is still the rule that dictates the company’s designs, but this notion is also now balanced out by touches of boldness, playfulness and approachability.

As a result, the offerings nowadays are no longer the preserve of schoolboys and the aristocracy, but for any gent looking to add a dash of pattern into his wardrobe, with each one of New & Lingwood’s modern designs bearing a quality that is both transcendent to the years but suitable for today’s way of life.

And it is this hybrid ethos that is showcased most recently in the company’s AW 22 campaign, all of which was shot at a classic English residence in Somerset.

In this new age in which the notion of adapt and change seems to be the modus operandi, New & Lingwood has crafted a collection that works as hard as it looks good, with a particular focus on comfort and elegance, as seen in the softening of the tweed used and in the blending of more casually structured tailoring and loungewear that can be taken from weekends in the countryside to business lunches in the inner city – perhaps most symbolic of this approach can be seen in the brand’s new green velvet suit, a luxe piece that is suitable for both the whiskey room of a members’ club and during lazy dinner evenings in Hampshire.

There are also recycled-cashmere and brushed-lambswool crewneck sweaters that work as well on city breaks as they do on breezy afternoon strolls in rolling hillsides; a wear-anywhere pair of drawstring cord trousers is simultaneously formal and off-duty; and the selection of Oxford button-down shirts can either be dressed up with a navy blazer or given a rural edge when paired with some brogues.

Moreover, far from the dark tones and moody hues of other menswear you may find in the coming months, this new collection has a vibrancy and punch that stems from a strong use of texture and colour.

Make a statement at sunrise and sunset with the wide-stripe cotton pyjama set; and dress-up your dressing gown game with a statement bird-and-flower patterned piece complete with quilted cuffs and teal silk lapels (versions in plaid and a variety of sumptuous paisleys further pad out the seasons’s options).

“For my first AW collection with New & Lingwood, I was keen to continue showcasing the versatility of loungewear when paired with formal tailoring, for a more relaxed aesthetic. With that in mind, I took inspiration from both the city and country – combining the busyness of London and the calm nature of the countryside perfectly reflects the relaxed versatility of this collection and direction of New & Lingwood,” says the brand’s creative director, Tom Leeper.

Further in the collection, a brown club-check single-breasted jacket can also move easily between bucolic settings to business meetings at The Ivy; while for those who want to make a bright but subtle statement can opt for the green-check scarf crafted from Escorial wool.

Looking forward, but always paying reverence to what’s come before, New & Lingwood’s latest collection may be steeped in tradition, but it’s made with the modern Brit in mind. All things considered, perhaps that moniker isn’t so much of a red herring after all…

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