Muga London: the best ramen in town?
As the temperature drops, our beloved outdoor street food disappears into the night and we pray for that fabled ‘Indian summer’ that never comes, we can find solace in rekindling our relationship with nostalgia of winter comfort. Walking into a warm bustling eatery, windows steamy and dripping before sitting huddled over a hot bowl of ramen. This coming winter, newly established ramen joint Muga is looking to be your refuge.
THE CUISINE
Ramen, ramen, ramen. It’s the Japanese noodle soup invented in 20th Century Japan with the sole purpose of curing man flu and helping city boys sweat out their “all-nighter at Bodos” hangovers.
THE VIBE
Clean, minimalist design with easy going but knowledgeable staff. Sit at the bar and watch the masters at work whilst edgy fashion types float through the doors from nearby, soon to be opened Dover Street Market 2.0.
THE FOOD
The Takoyaki are a personal highlight; dumpling balls filled with doughy lava encasing octopus tentacle and decorated with writhing bonito flakes for added fishiness. They’re salty, sweet and soul-warming; everything Japanese comfort food should be.
For ramen, the crowd favourite Tonkotsu is the one to go for. Where many of the big brands suffer from watery or oily noodle soups, here you’ll find a complex broth. The noodles had a pleasing amount of bite and were accompanied by all the essential extras; fiery red pickled ginger, a silky soft egg, and moist, fatty pork. Augment your bowl with some Nori and pickled mustard leaf for added umami punch.
After all the sticky, gelatinous noodle slurping, a sharp yuzu ice cream is the perfect way to cut through all the oiliness. The Mochi on the other hand arugably lacked flavour and could have benefitted from more of its kinako and molasses toppings… as most things would.
THE DRINKS
The Gin & Tea combines gin, Kamm & Sons and green tea into a boozy but dangerously drinkable cocktail served in Instagram-worthy ceramic emblazoned tumblers.
THE DAMAGE
At just £11 for a bowl of ramen alongside starters and deserts that rarely break a fiver, it’s a perfect midweek indulgence when you can’t muster the energy to get home. The row of suits slurping away at the bar on our work night visit are proof enough.
As London continues to be in the throes of Ramen fever (before the very impending Bao invasion takes full swing – give it a few months) a number of big chains have wrestled for dominance of the capital. As reliable as they all may be, there are many unsung heroes in the midst. Muga may be one such place. We will certainly be darkening its doors again soon.
BEST FOR
When you can’t face the commute back to Clapham on a chilly and rainy October weeknight.
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