Mr. Porter – Mens Collection – London’s Next Generation Designers

Mr. Porter Celebrates Individualism with London’s Next Generation Cream of the Crop Designers.

Iconic red London telephone calling box imported into one of London’s creative art galleries? Check. Important fashion editors including Natalie Massent, Jeremy Langmead, Suze Menkes? Check! Four of London’s most-watched designers? Check. This could only mean one thing. Day Two of London Collections: Men.

Day two marked the celebration and collaboration of Mr Porter and the next generation of must-have designers by showcasing London’s newest and brightest designers, Sibling, Richard Nicoll, Matthew Miller, and Katie Eary at Alsion Jacques Gallery, 16 Berners Street.

Each designer produced an exclusive capsule collection illustrating their approach towards London’s menswear and the individuality they intend to bring to not only British fashion aficionados but to customers worldwide.

Central Saint Martins graduate, Richard Nicoll is in a sphere all his own. It seems as if even when he gets it “wrong” by following his own ideal he still manages to get it “right”. In the past he has designed womenswear heavily influenced by men’s designs. This time Nicoll used his own wardrobe as a base and inspiration to design simple geometric shapes and bright colours to bring to a new audience who can appreciate the luxury of merino wool while remaining true to himself by offering men easy-to-wear high-quality clothing.

While Katie Eary is no stranger to individualism it is by means safe or wise (for that matter) to assume the “street couture” beauty isn’t a major researcher. For her collaboration with Mr. Porter Eary used bold prints of red and yellow to create a baroque fish print among other “in-your-face” designs. It is no wonder that Miss. Eary has a cult following all of her own.

Former Royal College of Art student, Matthew Miller took an accessible yet less-is-more approach as his signature technological versus traditional designs showed a more rebel side with the designer using terms like “destroy” to explain his approach to how he believes men will wear his clothing, all of which was woven in Italy. “Design should be a process that is inclusive and not dictated,” said the creative genius.

Founded in 2008 by Messrs Joe Bates, Cozette McCreery and Sid Bryan the Sibling Brand is heavily influenced by continuously looking at new and exciting ways to create a “preppy punk” aesthetic. The latest collection had an instantly recognisable nod to sportswear and comfort, which was not only refreshing but unapologetically British.

While discussing the relationship British designers have with their customers with Suze Menkes of the International Herald Tribune Ms. Menkes reflected on the days of London’s past. “Britain is special and is changing the face of fashion. London is changing as male consumers can buy clothes they see today, during the Men’s Collections the minute they see the clothing on the models,” said the living legend.

“Burberry today started with a breakfast at their Knightsbridge flagship store, but we all remember when Burberry struggled. It had to be modern and appeal to a younger generation and that’s what Christopher (Bailey) has accomplished. That is in Essence what London is accomplishing with days like today.”

“So too, has the Mr. Porter team, with allowing buyers, customers and other to come to the gallery, admire the designs and shop off of the iPads set up here.”

Mr Porter editor, Mr. Jeremy Langmead informed me, “its more global powerhouses as time goes on. Fashion is no longer looked at in the context of Paris, Milan, London and New York any longer. “London was fun and crazy and always will be, but now we see Savile Row traditions and the East (of London) coming together to celebrate the new. West London and East London are moving together stronger today. Commercialism today, he continued, isn’t a bad word in London.”

By Cole Simmons

The Gentleman’s Journal Fashion Editor

Left: Cole Simmons with Editor of Mr. Porter Mr Jeremy Langmead, Right: A model in London’s Iconic Telephone box