Milan Fashion Week – Editors Pick

Cole Simmons explains what stood out this year in Milan and why the following 5 brands gets his tick of approval.

1. Jil Sander

Last year German designer Jil Sander returned to her namesake label after Belgian designer Raf Simons left for his appointment as creative director of Dior. This week all eyes were on Sander’s latest designs, her first menswear debut since returning. She did not disappoint. Although there were pinstriped double-breasted blazers the majority of the collection concentrated on what has come to be expected by the designer’s minimal aesthetic. My favourite look, the Edwardian military green coat combined with electric blue trousers.

2. Gucci

Gucci is perhaps the best known fashion brand in the world. The latest collection from Frida Giannini proved why the Italian fashion house holds the title. “Modern with a romantic soul”, is how the designer described her inspiration. Dinner jackets with exquisite silk detailing along the lapel will surely be a favourite for next winter’s wardrobes. But my favourite would have to be the Prince of Wales tweed suit interpreted as an ode to the respect many Italian brands have for our rich British fabrics.

3. Dolce & Gabbana

Some designers ride the wave and some are drowned by the wave. Sicilian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana ride the wave. Proud of their Mediterranean heritage the duo did what they do best; infusing art into their designs, models wore cashmere sweaters with photos of Christ and gold Virgin Mary pins. So often designers forget men want to feel comfortable while looking sophisticated and relaxed. The duos latest offering checks all the boxes.

4. Trussardi

This week Trussardi showed us why sometimes having what you want can be more important than having what you need. Creative director Umit Benan heavily looked to sportswear, outdoors and luxury travel for a wilderness inspired collection. Fur coats, anoraks and dramatic capes along with corduroy suits in hues of rich greens, and brick reds have us prepared for next winter’s family vacation. Now that you know what is going in your suitcase you have no reason to procrastinate on booking your vacation to Klosters.

5. John Varvatos

Rarely do I ever see a collection which tempts me to buy every piece walking down the runway. John Varvatos attention to detail and execution of sophisticated edginess combined hand-woven ombré materials, solids and prints in a way that is instantly recognisable. “We bridged the English dandy and the modern age,” said the designer With so many other fashion houses getting the animal print trend horribly wrong the John Varvatos show gave the rest a lesson in how to get it right and how menswear is…dare we say it…created for men.

By Cole Simmons

The Gentleman’s Journal Fashion Editor

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