What to expect at the men's shows this fashion week
The Autumn/Winter 2025 shows kick off this January with a bang in Pitti Uomo, and then roadshows in Milan and Paris
Words: Zak Maoui
And just like that, we're back to business with another roster of jam-packed fashion weeks, attended by magazine editors, stylists and the odd celebrity (house ambassador Callum Turner sitting Front Row at Louis Vuitton). Starting tomorrow, fashion week (or more appropriately month) will see all the big brands showcase their Autumn/Winter 2025 collections.
The big fashion rodeo kicks off with Pitti Uomo, held down in the city of Florence, where the likes of Brunello Cucinelli and Kiton will show their latest collection (before moving to Milan to show it off again to the fashion pack). Ann Demeulmeester takes the coveted guest of honour spot, with artistic director Stefano Gallici showing at the Stazione Leopolda, the disused train station where Raf Simons once showed.
Next up it's over to Milan Fashion Week. Here all the big brands will be coming out to play, with Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio and Giorgio Armani, Tod’s and Brioni showing their collections. Sunday is historically Prada day on the Milan Fashion Week schedule, and Mrs Prada and the aforementioned Raf Simons will be showing their Autumn/Winter 2025 collection at the Fondazione Prada, while British brand Dunhill will close the penultimate day of the fashion week. As ever Zegna shuts things down on the Monday, with a show at 3pm, before the journalists, stylists and photographers pack up and head to Paris. Notably missing from Milan Fashion Week men's are Gucci and Fendi, both of which are presenting co-ed shows alongside the likes of Bottega Veneta during women's fashion week in February.
Prada Spring/Summer 2025
Other brands presenting their collections during Milan Fashion Week include Corneliani, Church's, Ten C, British-Italian brand Jordanluca, Woolrich Black Label (as designed by Todd Snyder), CP Company and Altea.
In Paris, expect a full week of big moments on and off the runways. Louis Vuitton is the big fashion house showing on day one (21st January), while before it promising young brand Auralee and Ernest W. Baker are presenting. Elsewhere on day two Berluti (via a presentation slot), Paul Smith, Lemaire, Isabel Marant and Acne Studios will unveil their collections. Burgeoning labels such as Bianca Saunders, Harry Styles-backed SS Daley and Egonlab will be staging runway shows. Thursday 23rd January belongs to the dark lords of fashion Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto, while Amiri takes the 8pm slot. Celine, meanwhile, will host appointments to view its AW'25 collection, as designed by its studio in the interim between former designer Hedi Slimane and new creative lead Michael Rider, formerly of Ralph Lauren.
SS Daley Autumn/Winter 2023
Later in the week Dior Homme stages its runway show on the Friday, while Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and Kenzo close out the day before the weekend. Hermès, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Hed Mayner are the Saturday highlights, while Sunday, the final day of Paris Fashion Week, sees Sacai, Wooyoungmi and Jacquemus (for the first time during men's) present their collections. Closing out Paris Fashion Week is Lanvin, whereby former Oscar de la Renta designer Peter Copping will debut for the stories Parisian house.
Loewe, where rumours are swirling about a Jonathan Anderson exit, is not showing during Paris, neither is the designer's eponymous label, which typically shows in Milan.
In short it's looking to be a great season for menswear. With Peter Copping’s Lanvin and Jacquemus exciting new additions, the Autumn/Winter 2025 collections have caused increased anticipation.
What do we expect? A move towards elegance, as was seen at the Spring/Summer 2025 shows (tailoring, perfectly crafted coats etc) and a shift away from streetwear. "We already know that casual silhouettes have slowly and surely been phased out, and it feels like overall we’re maturing and returning to more refined looks," says Tora Northman, a freelance fashion editor, consultant and Highsnobiety alum. "I’m predicting we will see much more tailoring in combination with casual, vintage-inspired pieces, as well as silhouettes that feel playful yet grown up. Nothing too serious – we still need to have some fun, after all – with plenty of colours and textures dominating." Luke Day, stylist and Fashion Director of Man About Town is in agreement. "I'd like to see the return to elegance, some glamour," he told Gentleman's Journal ahead of the men's shows. "I want some sexiness too."
You can also expect that the collections will reflect the turbulent times we're living in, whether the ongoing wars in the world, the US presidency or the rise of AI.
Meanwhile, with big players such as Gucci, Fendi and Loewe lying low this season or showing elsewhere on the fashion week calendar, fresh meat and smaller brands are coming through. "I feel like the next great menswear brand is going to show its face," says Chris Morencey, former editorial director of Highsnobiety and Business Of Fashion, and strategist and journalist. "There are many great designers out there already but there is a clear leader missing that’s showing at fashion week that excited. Something is bubbling up I feel."
When it comes to who will be sat Front Row, Morencey also has come ideas. "I also believe brands will be honing in on their crews a lot more. Less of the same influencers and editors at all the same shows and more friends and family Rick Owens style, or at least I hope."
Now check out the best collections from the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 shows
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