Members -- 8 days ago
Words: Digby Warde-Aldam
Le Franglais – 10 questions for Arnaud Bamberger, immaculately dressed anglophile and chairman of Cartier UK.
TGJ: You’re a descendant of the fathers of cinemas and a graduate in Philosophy and Economics. It’s fair to say that luxury jewellery was not the most obvious career path to follow – what attracted you to the business? And what would you have done otherwise?
AB: The world of luxury, and more specifically that of watches and jewellery, is a privileged one. It has craft, savoir-faire and great traditions at its heart, and then a Maison like Cartier has the history and unique romance of famed clients and commissions, which continues to this day. These are the aspects that intrigued me, and I think I would have always found my way into this business of beauty.
TGJ: After an itinerant decade in the 1980s, you settled in London in 1992 – what is it about the city that appeals to you?
AB: London is where the whole world meets with culture, art and history. It is a most international city but with a British touch that makes it unique. For day-to-day life, it is a beautiful city too, with all of the parks and green squares.
TGJ: Do you see London losing any of its present status as a ‘World City’ in the next few decades?
AB: I don’t believe so; more and more people flock to London as it is a truly international city and still a financial centre. It is also home to institutions such as Royal Ascot, which cannot be replicated anywhere else.
TGJ: You were named president of the Chambre du Commerce Francaise en Grande Bretagne in 2013 – what extra work does the role involve? And has recognition of the expatriate French community in Britain meant a lot of new investment here?
AB: This role is a great honour and being a Frenchman who has been in London for so long, I feel that I can contribute with experience and knowledge developed over many years. The satisfaction I gain from meeting all sorts of new people far outweighs any extra work I have taken on. I hope to provide guidance to French companies entering the market, drawing on my time at Cartier but also having lived in London for a number of years. My role is about promoting the two countries I prefer and building stronger relations between them in the economic world.
TGJ: In terms of brand image, what measures have you taken to ensure that Cartier remains elegant and exclusive rather than flashy and bombastic? Striking a balance between commercial appeal and restraint must be difficult?
AB: This really is about balancing the past with where we are going in the future. Cartier provides itself in its heritage and its commitment to innovation. Cartier was always ahead of its time, defining luxury along the way with avant-garde yet classic products. For instance our new jewellery range, Clou, was avant-garde in the ‘70s and is nowadays still modern and ahead of its time in design and aesthetics. Pieces such as the Tank are iconic, instantly recognisable and timeless. Finally there is the exceptional craft and dedication that goes into each piece we create. This is what helps keep the balance, and maintains the integrity of the Maison.
TGJ: How has the jewellery trade changed in the last 30 years? Is there anything you miss about the old days?
AB: Customers have changed as people travel and purchase products around the world. The shopping experience becomes essential to acquire customers and maintain an experience of luxury and uniqueness. One of our unique points in London is that we have one of the three ‘temples’ of Cartier here. The history of the brand lies in London, New York and Paris – these are the oldest boutiques with the richest history, and there is a wealth of stories and experience. From my time and before, this has always enhanced our customer’s shopping experience. I have always kept to the same principles over the past 30 years, which I have remained faithful to. This means I am always able to move forward and embrace new things with little nostalgia.
TGJ: What has been the single biggest change to the industry? Has the internet significantly changed the way it operates?
AB: The digital age has definitely dawned and the luxury industry has started to embrace it. It opens a whole new way of communicating with our clients, both existing and new. The essentials of creativity and craft remain the same, but this tool for communicating to a new generation of people is an interesting and exciting opportunity.
TGJ: Would you say that, with efficient management, a recession can be a positive thing for luxury brands?
AB: We are fortunate at Cartier that from the beginning of our history, when the three Cartier brothers founded the Maison, that quality and integrity were central to our creations. This has meant that both in prosperous times and those that are more difficult, our clients remain faithful to us. Whether there is a recession or not, desirability must remain; there is always a way to find the glass half-full.
TGJ: As new markets emerge (in Russia, and latterly in China, for example), have others declined?
AB: We have both a strong local market, as well as many foreign clients from the Middle East, China, and Russia amongst others. Yes, there is always a flux, but we are fortunate to enjoy an international clientele.
TGJ: Your style has been described as ‘classically British’ – not a compliment usually afforded to the British themselves. How does it feel to be an honorary Brit?
AB: I am in many ways an anglophile. I value deeply how much I have been accepted into this wonderful culture, and I myself find it a great compliment.
TGJ: Finally, where do you see yourself in ten years? Do you have plans to retire?
AB: For now I am still at Cartier, and will continue to be so as long as I can add something.
By Digby Warde-Aldam
Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?
Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.
