Words: Gentleman's Journal
Since their inception, in St. Imier, Switzerland, in 1832, watch manufacturer Longines have prided themselves on a tradition of elegance and performance. The brand’s winged hourglass logo has appeared the world over, on everything from personal wristwatches to the timekeeping equipment for international sports championships.
Now, Longines are celebrating this illustrious heritage. Four new runs of timepieces show just how far the watchmaker has come – refining their mechanisms whilst staying true to the spirit and designs of tradition.
The Longines Heritage Military COSD is a reissue of a sober yet characterful watch created for British paratroopers in the 1940s. Intended for the sole use of the Combined Operations Command, a division created by the British War Office during the Second World War, this is a watch of military precision and pared back, stark style.
With a 40mm steel case, the Military COSD boasts a self-winding mechanism, and is mounted on a khaki NATO strap. These straps were also created for the British Army, to meet the rigorous requirements of military service. However, the new reissue is also available with a black leather strap.
On the opaline dial, a chapter-ring boasts large black Arabic numerals and a red 24-hour scale with blued hands. A railway-track minute ring further emphasises the military feel of the watch, and the upper part of the dial bears a broad arrow, a symbol used in Britain at the time to indicate government property.
The Longines Heritage 1969 is the epitome of charm and simplicity. With its cushion case and brushed silver dial, this reissue intends to celebrate the brand’s watches of the late 1960s.
At the time of its initial release, the 1969 was available in steel, gold-plating and 18-karat gold. The reissue is limited to the steel case, but has been elegantly combined with a brushed silver dial to recall the essence of the original model. Adorned with 12 pink appliqué indexes, the hands are also pink – marking the hours, minutes and seconds in style whilst also offering optimal readability.
The date window is positioned at 4:30, and the case itself measures 36 x 36mm. Suitable for the wrists of men and women alike, the striking cushion case design is enhanced by a box-form crystal – and the 64 hour power reserve of the mechanism within means that the 1969 is jut as impressive on the inside as it is on the out. A black alligator skin strap completes the look.
Rebooting the pocket watch aesthetic, the Longines Heritage 1918 is a vintage interpretation of elegance. The watch, although taking inspiration from the first bracelet-chronographs created by the Swiss brand, also features a dial that echoes the pocket watches of the era.
Blued steel and honey-coloured varnish impart character to hands that stand out on a white-lacquered polished dial, which mark the hours and minutes on this reissued model. The small second hand at 6 o’clock adds dimension and contrast to the dial and the honey colour can also be found on the large numerals painted on the dial, providing this emblematic early 20th century timepiece with a remarkably successful balance.
Available in a 41mm size for men, the watch houses a L615 automatic winding technical calibre, and the honey-coloured alligator skin strap finished off the balanced look.
Returning to the 1960s, the Longines RailRoad reissue is a tribute to the adventure of the railway. The brand has always been a favourite of international railway companies and, at the beginning of the 20th century, the watches were worn by the employees of many railway companies in Romania, Serbia, Persia, Italy, Chile, Canada, the United States, Turkey and even China, all won over by the remarkable technical characteristics of Longines’ timepieces.
The letters RR – for Rail Road – from the original dial have been recreated on this reissue, but overall the watch mirrors the sober and characteristic aesthetics of railway watches. The 40-mm diameter steel case houses a highly reliable L888.2 automatic winding calibre, produced exclusively for Longines, and the off-white polished dome dial ensures excellent readability thanks to its large black Arabic numerals – with a 0 instead of a 12
Shiny black hands and a minute ring enhances the reading of the time. The back of this model shows a finely worked engraving inspired from the original decorations that adorned the pocket watches designed for railway companies in the 1920s. And, for a finishing touch, an elegant black alligator strap adds an additional touch of refinement to this model.
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