The London restaurant to visit this week: Angler
Unpretentious and perfectly-poised, Moorgate’s Angler is Michelin’s best-kept secret
Words: Josh Lee
With the rise and fall of various foodie trends that hit our shores, finding a simple high-end restaurant can often be an arduous task in London. But if you dig a little deeper, you’ll find some worldly hidden gems. The latest one we’ve unearthed? Angler – a clean and pristine fish-focused fine-dining eatery which sits atop Moorgate’s South Place Hotel and pays homage to the abundance of British rivers and coastlines. And, thanks to its safe and consistent dining experience, it’s gained popularity as one of the city’s most reliable gastronomic hotspots.
Opened in 2012 by the D&D group (the organisation behind Coq d’Argent, Le Pont de La Tour and German Gymnasium), Angler gained Michelin-star status within a year and has since earned itself a reputation as a pescetarian paradise amongst those in the know. Better still, with executive chef Gary Foulkes – a man who’s held positions at some of the UK’s most highly-acclaimed establishment, including The Vineyard and Mayfair’s legendary double-starred restaurant The Square – at the helm, this restaurant remains firmly in Michelin’s good books, with picture-perfect plates and delicious, refined seasonal cuisines being served to critical acclaim.
Angler
Inside you’ll find mirrored ceilings, crisp white clothes draped on top tables and beautiful statement floor lamps, while over at the semi private Chef’s View table, guests are given a unique look into the kitchen’s bustling activity. Moreover, for diners that wish to relax post-meal with a glass of red, then head on over to the restaurant’s terrace: during summer this open air space plays hosts to rooftop parties and live DJs, while in the colder months a retractable roof and heaters ensure that you’ll stay warm and dry while no matter the weather outside.
The ambience is…
Cool and quiet. For a Michelin-starred eatery that sits between Shoreditch and The City, it’s quite a pleasant surprise that the room isn’t filled to the rafters with businessmen wining and dining clients all night long. But perhaps it’s relaxing and calm ambience is the main attraction here – while buzzier restaurants can cause staff to juggle too many plates at once (quite literally) and lose focus, at Angler there’s an unfussy yet attentive charm about the service.
So, although It may not have the showmanship of other Michelin-rated restaurants, Angler certainly makes up for it with its professional, charming service and technically accomplished food.
Order the…
“Cornish sardines” – beautifully diced cuts of sardines are placed alongside kabu turnip, smoked eel and drizzled with horseradish. Sweet, creamy and moreish, this starter is a glandular masterpiece – and that’s not an understatement.
“Wild Cornish Pollock” – this bijou-sized square of pollock is topped with a ras el hanout-spiced flatbread and partnered with a curried parsnip sauce and tiny dollop of liquefied pomegranates.
“Hand rolled black truffle spaghetti” – a big forkful of al dente spaghetti is tossed in a parmesan emulsion and topped with several black truffle shavings and olive oil. With profound depth, this rich and precise dish is a standout. The only issue? We wish there was more.
“Gilhead bream” – the skin is crispy and the flesh flakes beautifully, while the English squash helps balance out the earthier notes of ceps and roscoff onions.
Wear:
As you’ll be near Square Mile territory, keep things formal and timeless when dining at Angler. Need some help? Try the classic combo of a single breasted suit with a crisp white shirt.
Visit Angler at South Place Hotel, 3 South Pl, London EC2M 2AF
Need somewhere else to go in London? Check out our latest review of Launceston Place.
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