The big Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear moments from London Fashion Week

When the schedule was announced before Christmas there was talk that this London Fashion Week, which ran from Thursday 20th to Tuesday 24th February, was a little light on the ground. Sure, some brands like 16Arlington opted not to show, while we long lost the British labels Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and Victoria Beckham to Paris, there was still plenty of good stuff going on, and menswear in particular had some seriously strong moments.

From Burberry, which held a Monday evening slot, and Daniel Fletcher's debut at Chinese label Mithridate to Denzilpatrick, Simone Rocha and Chet Lo, below are the brands that did the best menswear for the Autumn/Winter 2025 season...

Daniel Lee's Spring/Summer 2025 campaign for Burberry was released two weeks ago, and was an all-out celebration of London: a trenched-up Kate Winslet in one of the capital's doorways; Nicholas Hoult and Jodie Turner-Smith hanging out on Southbank and Naomi Campbell taking a black cab ride with an equestrian knight.

For the Autumn/Winter '25 collection, he staged an all-out British affair in the Duveen Galleries the capital's grand Tate Britain. Hoult, Turner-Smith and Campbell were there, but so was Skepta, Brooklyn Beckham, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Damien Lewis and Orlando Bloom, among lots of other starry names. No surprise really: Burberry holds a power unlike any other brand in the UK and it draws the celeb crowds out season after season. Case in point: Lesley Manville, Richard E Grant, Sope Dirisu and Jason Isaacs even walked in the show.

The collection was Daniel Lee's best yet. With two years and four seasonal collections (a further four pre- collections) under his belt, it felt like he'd found his stride. The collection, started off with muted tones - an ode to the murkiness of Britain's weather - and ended with more elaborate clothign by way of vlevet ornate suits and leather trenches, was reflective of a retreat from London to the countryside. "Think of them as weekend escapees," Lee said of the inspirations for the collection. "It’s that great Friday night exodus from London to the countryside for long rainy walks and to disconnect in the great outdoors. It’s day-trips to grand stately homes." Tapestry brown and Deer taupe are common in the collection, but also shades of punky red and yellow, Alder and Maze greens, which were inspired by Lee's own memories of long walks in the Yorkshire Dales.

When it comes to the clothes highlights include, but aren't limited to, Savile Row-inspired tailoring cut from birdseye wool and corduroy, thistle corsages that are pinned to lapels, scarves that are wrapped three times round the neck of wearers and feature cartoonish fringing, and tailored cashmere coats that feature chunky-knit shawl collars. Coats were belted and tied tight, while one plum-hued leather trench was left open and billowing in the wind - a wind that was caused by the collective gasps of positivity from the audience.

For Autumn/Winter 2025 S.S.Daley, who now has financial backing from Harry Styles, presented a collection inspired by the enveloping world of the Scottish Colourists. Not familiar? This was an artistic group known for the boldness of their colour palette and atmospheric artistic landscapes, which was translated into an excellent collection of punchy shapes and mesmorising patterns.

The starting point for Daley was Iona Croft painted in the mid-1920s by Francis Cadell, one of the more prominent members of the group. A cottage scene taken from the work was depicted on knitwear, while Daley's prints were also reflective: warm cream satin was adorned with ambling vines and berries.

The strongest pieces in the collection came in the form of outerwear, with Harrington jackets cast in light beige and wool duffle coats which were oversized and detail-heavy. Tailoring too was strong, as it always is with Daley, and single-breasted black wool suits were louch in fit and paired with matching trench coats.

Established in 2021 by designer Daniel Gayle and his partner James Bosley, and named after Gayle's grandparents, Denzilpatrick has been steadily growing and is now one of the key young menswear brands in London.

For Autumn/Winter 2025 the brand staged a show in King's Cross, and presented a collection that riffed on the idea of the traditional knight, as a nod to "a modern parade of chivalry & brotherhood". According to the brand's show notes, it was an exploration of "of the fallen rider, a discordant hybrid. Post-race, victorious in defeat, renewed." The clothes, as a result, were knightly in shape and silhouette, but anything but the typical metal hardware you'd expect from the English gentry.

Soft wool balaclavas were reminiscent of a knight's helmet, shoulders on asymmetrical, grey jackets were strong and padded, and suits featured plumage that crept out from three-button, double-breasted fronts.

Made in China, but so very British, is how we'd describe Daniel Fletcher's debut collection as creative director for Mithridate, the Shanghai-based luxury label that he just made his debut at during London Fashion Week.

Fletcher's moodboard for his menswear was formed with a scattering of images of Mick Jagger in the 1960s, actor Rupert Everett wearing a baggy shirt and tie in 1984 gay romantic drama Another Country and Nicole Kidman wearing a pencil suit in 1999. "Bridget Jones, Four Weddings and a Funeral, and all those Richard Curtis films were on the initial board," he told Gentleman's Journal.

In the collection, which expertly reflects British eccentricity, billowing trousers that fall on pointed brogues and are paired with untucked Oxford shirts, while jumpers dyed acidic green and cable knits are worn over shoulders in a public schoolboy, Harrow kind of way. Elsewhere scarves, which have become a signature in Fletcher's own brand collections, are tied neatly behind the neck so they fall elegantly on oversized double-breasted suits. Camel-dyed leathers are juxtaposed against corduroy blazers, which in turn are in contrast to the relaxed nature of the Harrington jackets. Sailor-like jackets are finished with blanket stitch edging.

After nearly 15 years of doing her thing, Simone Rocha is one of the London Fashion Week big players, with press and celebrities flocking to see the Irish designer's latest collection unveiling. Alexa Chung, Fiona Shaw and Fionn O'Shea walked, while Douglas Booth and Tom Sturridge sat FROW.

For Autumn/Winter 2025 the brand looked to the "Tortoise & The Hare. School days haze. Twisted twin sets. Behind the bike shed" as inspiration. In short, it was a childlike collection that served up rebellious biker looks as well as other teenage character studies.

The collection comprised of faux-fur hare-like shawls that comfortable cuffed necks, while leather jackets were paired up with shin-grazing shorts and bike-chain-cinched windbreakers. The whimsical aesthetic of Rocha's collections was still there, but it was juxtaposed against a new defiance and strength through clothing which the show notes put as "not attached to today, solace in your own time and space."

For Autumn/Winter 2025 Asian American designer and 2020 graduate of Central Saint Martins Chet Lo presented "Modern Antiquity, a bold reinterpretation of chinoiserie through an Asian perspective." Gone were the neon dashes of lime green and teal that you might expect to see from the brand and instead it was a darker collection, that incorporated the designer's signature textures and merino wool spikes in new ways.

Suits carried the spikes on jacket sleeves, V-neck knitwear was oversized and worn with patterned ties, and wool polo shirts were layered up. Ties were cast in tiger prints as Lo onfronts the colonialist history of Western interpretations of Asian art, reclaiming and transforming these motifs into something distinctly and authentically Asian.

Now read an interview with Daniel Fletcher on his Mithridate debut

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