Inside the Kulm Hotel, Switzerland’s most historic mountain retreat

The Kulm Hotel was the very first place in Switzerland to have electric lighting. It’s one of those so-what factoids that seems odder the more you look at it. The first place to have electric lights in Switzerland. Not Bern, Zurich or Geneva – but here, 1,822 metres up, in the lobby of a grand hotel in a remote mountain village that still takes a calendar day to travel to; that winding railway climb which grows slower and slower as it pulls higher and higher, until it rolls in, almost at a saunter, to St Moritz at the end of the line.

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