Kouzu: where cooking is an art form

Kouzu: where cooking is an art form

Words: Holly Butler

Kouzu state that they treat Japanese food as an art form. Pick the bones from that sweeping statement and what you really get is high-end Japanese with a few guest appearances from the French – think foie gras with chopsticks. All of this is served up by Japanese super-star chef, Kyoichi Kai of Zuma and The Arts Club.

THE VIBE

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The exterior of the Grade 2 listed mansion is contrasted by the modern and restrained interior. It maintains a state of class whilst swerving snootiness in favour of a more relaxed, social ambience.

THE FOOD

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The waiters here are trained on the menu for twice the time of the average eatery – do not underestimate their suggestions, they really know what’s best. The pan-fried foie gras, served in a sticky sweet teriyaki-style sauce with wasabi and fruit coulis, is a must and a flagship for Asian-fusion done well. Meanwhile, the yellow tail with ponzu truffle dressing was a fresh, tart dish that felt more ceviche than sashimi. For the main show, let the chef select a range of their sushi and sashimi… as long as that range includes the o-toro and sea bass.

THE DRINKS

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It seems that doing ‘Japanese twists on classic cocktails’ is somewhat commonplace among the new breed of Japanese openings. These have often left us confused and disappointed. However, compared to some of the awkward executions we’ve experienced at other West London establishments, the ones here were thoroughly enjoyable.

THE DAMAGE

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We were disappointed that the Wagyu was not available on our visit. However, at £85 a hit, our wallets let out a sigh of relief. The rest of the menu is more modestly priced, with small plates around £8-15 and £20 and up for the specials. The sharing plate vibe means you can order in waves until either your belly or wallet gives in first.

THE CONCLUSION , Kouzu is an exciting challenger to the more established champions of London’s Japanese food and a welcome change to the culinary no-man’s land of Victoria.

BEST FOR, Flashy dates with non-veggies.

For more, see Kouzu.

Further reading