Words: Jonathan Wells
Ah, Tom Ford’s ill-fitting suits; we’ve been expecting you. Ever since Daniel Craig’s second outing as James Bond — in the aggressively passable Quantum of Solace — 007 has been tailored by the American designer (Casino Royale saw him dressed in the same Brioni duds as his predecessor, Pierce Brosnan). And from Quantum, through Skyfall, Spectre and now No Time To Die, these snug suits have come under heavier fire than the super-spy himself.
‘Too tight!’, ‘Poorly fitted!’ and ‘Shrunken fits!’ come the keyboard-bashing cries from chatrooms around the world. And, to some extent, the keen-eyed super-fans are right: Bond’s suits do err a little on the taut side. Perhaps they’re overcompensating for Brosnan’s baggy, clumsy fits. Maybe they’re the best Ford can do over Craig’s muscle-bound ‘nouveau Bond’ physique. Or possibly it’s simply a stylistic choice to stand out. It’s got us talking, after all…
Whatever the reason, we’ve trawled through the trailer for Craig’s last white-knuckled, sharp-shooting, sharp-suited crack at the franchise to propose some tailoring alternatives of our own. And, from statement tuxedos to more double-breasted jackets, this is how we’d dress 007 to the nines.
It’s not yet navy’s time to die
In the sequences of No Time To Die set in London, Bond will button up Tom Ford’s O’Connor suit in navy Prince of Wales check. It’s a solid, dependable and thoroughly un-thrilling look. Of course, there’s only so much you can do with navy, but if the costume department had looked past their Tom Ford deal — and they do elsewhere in the film — we could have seen a navy suit take on new life.
Our first suggestion would have been Paul Smith’s The Soho suit. Not only thoroughly British, Smith’s Soho is part of his ‘A Suit To Travel In’ collection. With a slim-fit, un-hemmed trousers and rubber grip on the waistband to keep Bond’s shirting secure, it would have been the perfect pick for a jet-setting, punch-throwing super-spy. If the subtle patterning was a selling point, Hackett sells a traditional Scottish Glen check option; fitting with Bond’s Caledonian roots. Or, if quality is key, Ermenegildo Zegna’s twill offering comes in the same midnight blue that Craig’s Bond favours for his tuxedos.
Let’s see more of Bond’s casual suiting
No complaints here. The Massimo Alba Pinwale Corduroy Sloop Suit 007 can be seen wearing during No Time To Die’s opening sequence is a masterstroke by the costume department. It’s textured, rugged — still tight — but more believable for leaping from viaducts, surviving shoot-outs and motorcycle jumping. And it’s not only the first ready-to-wear suit Bond’s worn since Timothy Dalton’s tenure — it’s also the first time we’ve seen Craig’s Bond in a suit this lightly coloured since Casino Royale. And that godawful linen number is best forgotten.
Not that there’s anything wrong with linen. Done right, the easy, breezy fabric has just as much utilitarian charm as Bond’s new cotton-corduroy suit. Oliver Spencer would have been another great option; the British brand’s Brookes offering is slim enough not to jar with Craig’s existing suiting — as is Etro’s beige Italian number. Or, to continue with the corduroy, Thom Sweeney’s classically handsome suit has a double-vented back for movement and echoes of the brown Brunello Cucinelli suit from Spectre.
Grey can be great; but make it double-breasted
Remember how good Daniel Craig’s Bond looked in his double-breasted peacoat in Skyfall? Or that long, double-breasted overcoat in Spectre? Curiously, the costume department have never translated this winning look from 007’s outerwear to his tailoring — and we will only ever see Daniel Craig’s Bond in single-breasted suits. During Prince Charles’ No Time To Die set visit, Bond was wearing a Tom Ford O’Connor suit in grey Prince of Wales check. But, despite bearing his pattern, the suit didn’t follow the heir apparent’s favoured double-breasted style.
But it should have. Brunello Cucinelli, who Craig’s Bond already has a relationship with, could have offered up a fresh look for the super-spy with its Prince of Wales check blazer. As could Richard James; homespun British tailor with another grey double-breasted take on the iconic pattern. We’d have even raised a Martini glass to his suiting had Bond stepped out in something as restrained as Clements & Church’s charcoal grey boucle suit — it would have at least been a shake-up.
Why not let Bond’s black tie have a big finish?
When Spectre revealed that James Bond had an ivory dinner jacket hanging in his wardrobe, those sartorially-minded chatrooms went into overdrive. It had a carnation! It was trimmed in grosgrain silk! And, above all, it wasn’t midnight blue! Aside from Skyfall’s slightly brighter tuxedo, most all of Craig’s dinner jackets have played it safe. And, unfortunately, the chance for a big statement style finish in No Time To Die’s eveningwear department seems to have been overlooked.
Bond once again dons a Tom Ford Shelton midnight blue dinner suit in Craig’s last film. There’s nothing overly wrong with it, but imagine how iconic it would have been if he’d instead slipped on Tom Ford’s burgundy velvet tuxedo? Or stuck with a palette he’s used to and opted for the wholly British Favourbrook’s beige spin on formalwear? We’d have even been happy with a return to Brioni, if not just for this jacquard tuxedo jacket. But the safe option? Not very exciting, not very daring, not very Bond.
Want more insight into the style of the next film? Here’s what watch Bond will be strapping on…
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