Ippudo – Exploring the new casual dining trend
Words: Holly Butler
2014 was the year that ramen in the UK went from a homely comfort food staple to a fully fledged casual-dining trend, complete with its own posse of geeked up ramen snobs matched only by the likes of the Third-wave coffee scene. Broth styles, noodle hardness and egg yolks are the new roast profiles, single origins and brew techniques. With this trend has come a slew of new openings across the Capital. With over 100 restaurants across the world and a reputation stretching from Tokyo to NYC, Ippudo is the latest international brand set on entering Europe by riding London’s noodle soup wave.
CUISINE, Birthed by the self-proclaimed ramen king, Shigemi Kawahara, the specialty here is Tonkotsu ramen. This traditional Hakata-style ramen features a rich, pork-based broth housing thin noodles, pork belly, wood-ear mushrooms and spring onions. The menu also includes a healthy range of less brothy alternatives including grilled black cod, gyoza and Hirata style buns and wings.
THE VIBE, The location within the rather faceless Central Saint Giles development isn’t the most breathtaking, and being nestled amongst the likes of Byron and Zizzi could leave it at risk of being pigeonholed with the other chainy-pedestrian-lunchtime haunts. However, upon entry you are immediately reminded that this is by no means space for Groupon fodder. Expect welcoming cheers of “Irrashaimase”, very knowledgeable staff and great bar seating that somehow achieves a level of privacy.
THE FOOD, The Hirata bun starter was a very humble affair; a single slice of pork belly with a simple lettuce leaf and mayo. When it comes to choosing the ramen, however, go for the Akamaru Modern. Described as a “bolder translation” of the more mediocre original, the Umami Dama paste and fragrant garlic oil make a much more exciting flavour. On the whole the ramen avoids being too oily and over-augmented, a stigma that seems to affect a number of the modern London establishments. If you don’t like ramen, first go home and rethink your life, then return and order the Hakata Tonpu Yaki; a hot pancake/omelette topped with pork belly and a sweet okonomiyaki sauce.
THE DRINKS, First of all, we have been converted to the pleasures of Yuzushu. Made from Yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit that resembles a sour mandarin, this wine is sweet, tart and super refreshing. Served over ice, this makes for a decadent yet surprisingly light tipple or, in this case, a dangerously moreish hair of the dog. Second of all… there is no second, I am happy to admit we drank this for the entire meal – and you should too.
THE DAMAGE, A filling bowl or ramen with trimmings will set you back a tasty £12-15. Most starters will give you change from a £10 note. It may not be a cheap ramen den, but it is great value for the service and quality on show.
CONCLUSION, With so many new ramen openings across the city, competition will rise as the consumers become more informed and experienced. With Ippudo providing a level of service and quality that would be worthy of a higher price bracket, they won’t struggle to stay ahead of the pack with their extremely reasonable menu offerings.
BEST FOR…, Lunch-hour meetings and relaxed dinners with those who are happy to see you slurp on noodles.
For more, see www.ippudo.co.uk
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