Words: Charlie Thomas
Tiffany & Co are renowned for their jewellery, and rightly so. They do however have a rather impressive history in watchmaking, the likes of which dates back to 1837.
Masters of innovation, Tiffany recognised that the popularity of pocket watches had the potential to challenge that of their jewellery, so in 1874 they built their very own manufacture in the global mecca of watchmaking, Geneva. It was here that their horological prowess developed and in a very short space of time they were producing world class gold pocket watches with intricate complications such as hour repeaters, as well as high-jewellery pieces with diamonds, enamel and precious metals.
Although maintaining an elite status in the United States, it was time for Tiffany to reach out to a global audience. Their watches were showcased at the 1876 Philadelphia World’s Fair, 1889 Paris World’s Fair and the 1893 Chicago Fair, winning awards every time. The brand’s prolific watchmaking slowed down in the 20th century however, and from the mid-century onwards little to no watches were produced. Tiffany have triumphantly returned though with an all-new collection, inspired by founder, Charles Lewis Tiffany.
Mr Tiffany was, among other things, famed for creating the ‘New York Minute’ – the phrase was conceived after a nine-foot Atlas clock was erected above his Broadway store in the mid 1850s, and passersby would rely on it throughout the working day. The CT60 collection is inspired by this notion; the ’60’ represents the minute, and the design of the watch itself is decidedly throwback too. In terms of design though, the watches are based on a Tiffany & Co. gold watch given to U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt back in 1945.
Although they are an American brand, Tiffany have turned to the Swiss to produce the CT60 collection. Featuring self-winding mechanical movements, the timepieces have a number of different complications including chronographs and calendars, as well as power reserves of up to 42-hours.
Of the pieces that make up the CT60 collection, the Calendar Limited Edition stands out. It’s the piece directly inspired by FDR’s personal watch, and the similarities are clear. It’s a faithful rendition, featuring an outer date track, a seconds hand with red arrow-tipped point, identical numerals, and a polished and brushed 18k gold case.
The movement itself is made by Dubois Depraz, and visible through the sapphire crystal case back, it features stunning Geneva stripes and a Tiffany-engraved rotor.
Elsewhere, the CT60 Chronograph is a beautiful timepiece at a more accessible price point, especially in stainless steel (pictured). With similar levels of detailing and expert finishing as the Calendar, this piece also boasts the signature seconds hand, as well as a wonderfully muted silver dial complete with a date window at 6 o’clock.
Tiffany’s return to the world of watches is a welcome one, and these pieces demonstrate how their heritage and attention to detail is virtually second-to-none. We can’t wait to see what else is in store for them.
For more information, visit Tiffany & Co.
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