How to choose a suit (as told by a Savile Row expert)

When weighing up lunchtime options, it’s all too easy to fall into the same old ham sandwich option; it’s cheap, easy and does the job. Sometimes, though, you may want to splash out on a fancy lunch. The same goes for buying a suit. Opting for bespoke is a luxurious option no doubt, but it will serve you well in such important events and will earn you respect.

That said, buying an off the rack suit is an easy and sometimes necessary route, while a bespoke suit is something you won’t do very often, but will cherish each and every step. Not everyone can afford, or has the time to purchase, a bespoke suit, and so if you're going for a ready-to-wear suit, you still need to apply the rules of custom-wear.

So to help you out, we caught up with Dominic Sebag-Montefiore, accomplished tailor creative director of Savile Row stalwart Edward Sexton, to find out what you need to be aware of. Below is what he had to say...

For basic reasons, this is important because different cloths will perform well in different conditions. Flannels are great for winter, luxurious cloths feel great, but can be delicate, if you wear the suit in hot weather you will want something breathable. Then there is the context you will wear the suit in; different colours and patterns have different confrontations in different environments, as do different styles and cuts. If you are not sure about this a good tailor should be able to help you navigate this.

That said, you could split suits up in more traditional categories, but they do not seem so solid any more. Classic would be rooted in Savile Row traditions and ultimate refinement. Our modern suits will be looking to take the Savile Row traditional style and make them harmonise more with more modern environments. Our retro suits take inspiration from Iconic suits we have made in the past, like the Beetles suits, Mick Jagger Mick Jagger’s wedding suits.

But they do not seem so solid as categories any more. Formal wear means Black tie. A business suit is classic and formal. A Lounge suit is more relaxed and less corporate than a business suit, maybe more play with colour. A Cocktail suitis something smart to wear out in the evening, often dark and sexy, but not as formal as black tie. A Weekend suit is casual and sporty, maybe made from cord, cotton or tweed.

Structured jackets that create an elegant Savile Row shape, with classic proportions, emphasis on the shoulder line and chest, nipping in to the waist with a little flair lower down, these pair well with a trouser with crisp lines. Unstructured that are soft and gently flow over the body in a more natural way, pairder with a minimal trouser. Some suits have a drape that are looser on the shoulder and have a full drape to the chest area, often paired with a wider trouser that also flows.

If you are buying ready to wear you may need to find a good alteration tailor, if you are having something made this should be included in the process.

You can also choose from a huge range of fabric. It can be the solution to a problem if you have unusual proportions or a fun, creative process if you want something unique made. If you want something beautifully built around you (if the budget allows), bespoke is the way to get an impeccable hand-made suit. With ready to wear, what you see is what you get, and for some people, that is great you know what you are getting into, when you have something made it requires creativity and imagination and being bold enough to go down a path where you will not see what you are getting until it is complete.

Fit, proportion and construction are important, while choice of fabric helps too. The suit should fit and flatter the body, without pulling or creasing. It should make the most of your figure. The proportions of the garment show flow and harmonies, everything from lapel width, gorge height, pocket position, length, trouser width and more should all work together.

Beautiful hand stitching is lovely but does not make a garment well made. Well-made garments usually have extra fabric inside (inlay), and the suit can be altered in the future. Being full-canvased is usually a good starting point, but is not necessarily a good thing, there are well made full canvased garments and poorly made ones. Our bespoke garments have the canvas cut to the pattern and are hand-shaped and moulded around the customer’s body over the course of fittings. Pockets are all secured to the canvas for strength. The fabric is what you notice, and good fabric not only looks good, but covers your body so you want something that feels good, and performs well.

It's also best not to have a suit made as you are losing (or gaining weight); it is not going to fit when you are done.

With the jacket, fit the shoulders first, and the rest can be altered. Don't be afraid of trying a larger size on you may be surprised the bigger size taken in in places may be a better option. With the trousers, get the fit around your bottom and thighs right; it is much more straightforward to take in or let out the waist than remake the rest of the trousers. You want to see the whole garment flowing and balanced without creases or drags.The trousers should be pulled right up so the crotch of the trousers is millimetres away from your body to create a long leg line, and the leg should just break on the shoe. The jacket should stop in the nook of the wrist just above the thumb, and the shirt should traditionally come down 1cm

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