A very brief history of the dinner jacket
How Henry Poole & Co created the blueprint for evening wear
Words: Josh Lee
Lead image: Matthew Beedle
Set styling: Maya Linhares-Marx
Regardless of what you label it as – Germans say smoking jacket, Americans prefer tuxedo – black tie remains the ultimate expression of menswear at its most dignified and sophisticated, the style equivalent of seven courses at an Alain Ducasse. The trim silhouette contours the upper body with the smoothness of a Barry White bridge; its selection of lustrous tones – often black, midnight-blue or deep green – does wonders when highlighted by the twinkle of soft lighting; and the collars at hand (we prefer shawl and peak) help provide an upright feel.
The options today are seemingly infinite and, often, splendid, but the standard bearer for the dinner jacket is still Henry Poole, the one responsible for creating the framework for the garment we know today.
The story goes that, in 1865, the Prince of Wales (who became King Edward VII, and was known as Bertie to those close to him) requested that his tailor, Henry Poole, make him a short coat that he could wear to casual dinners at Sandringham, his private estate. A traditional tailcoat was trimmed and cropped and designed in ‘celestial blue’ – the result being what many accept as the first dinner jacket ever produced.
“The dinner suit is the epitome of men’s best dress attire and can never be faulted in the presence of others” – Simon Cundey, managing director, Henry Poole & Co
This piece of tailoring eventually became much coveted by our associates across the pond, and several theories of how its introduction to the US came about are in circulation today, including one involving Bertie, financier James Brown Potter, his wife, and the scene-creating regulars at the Tuxedo Club, New York.
A tailor at Henry Poole & Co, 1938. Image: Getty
No matter how it crossed the Atlantic, it is generally agreed by many that Henry Poole was the first to construct the garment – and certainly the one to perfect it.
Whenever the party occasion arises, we suggest that your thoughts quickly turn to assembling the appropriate attire for such long, revelrous nights. And there are few – if any – more proven labels to help you button up in this department. So, get ready to fire up the Amex – Savile Row awaits.
This feature was taken from our Autumn 2024 issue. Read more about it here.
Want more style content? Read about Crockett & Jones’s new collection of small leather goods…
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