Words: Joseph Bullmore
Summer, despite the British climate’s best efforts, is here; and with it, the noisy carousel of weddings, royal enclosures, and court appointments. On the coat-tails (aha!) of a string of such invitations landing on our desks, we present our definitive guide to morning dress.
Cecil Beaton in Morning Dress
Grey is traditional, and complements the widest range of pallets and body shapes. Plump for a cloth with a richer texture: birdseye and sharkskin cloths are a very safe bet.
The grey should be mid-tone. Too pale a shade will wash the wearer out.
Avoid any cloth that could ever be described as shiny.
Black jackets are growing in popularity, but are usually best avoided. Black is harder to match with a shirt and waistcoat, and tends to bring too much attention to the general colour scheme.
The jacket’s tails should gently graze your legs.
Again, grey is the traditional choice here. But buff or natural shades – or powder blues and dusty yellows – offer a good seasonal alternative.
Waistcoats should be constructed of linen, silk or brocade. Avoid a shiny silk jacquard number.
They may be double-breasted or single-breasted, but note that the bottom button of a single-breasted waistcoat is always left undone.
Backless waistcoats should be avoided. Wearing one will restrict you from removing your jacket should the need arise.
Stripes are the convention. But houndstooths (known elsewhere as ‘spongebag’), subtle Prince of Wales checks, or dark grey herringbones present a slightly more modern – and often eminently more flattering – alternative.
Flat fronted trousers give a more slim-lined silhouette. A front pleat is more traditional, and complements slimmer builds.
Trousers should be worn without a turn-up.
Shoes must be black. Oxfords are the conventional choice, though plain derbies are a strong substitute. The conservative wisdom is that brogues are not quite formal enough. Shoes should be highly polished.
Socks must match the trousers in hue.
Only bring a top hat when it is specifically required. Don’t bother for weddings.
There are no set rules for ties, though softer tones work best. A jaunty pattern is more appropriate for the races than for a wedding. Avoid novelty ties at all costs.
Gloves should go the way of spats and canes. It is very unlikely that you are Fred Astaire.
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