The newest addition to Islington’s Upper Street
Words: Holly Butler
Islington continues to be the golden goose for trendy eateries, sprouting new restaurants every week (not that us West Londoners are jealous or anything). With cosy independents like Oldroyd and empire expansions like Bellanger, MEATliquor and BiRD, we’re sure no-one’s complaining. And the latest newcomer to swagger into the ever changing Upper Street is Galley.
The cuisine
The focus is refreshingly on seafood, with the well written menu coming courtesy of fish master, Marcel Grzyb, ex-Head Chef at Soho stalwart Randall & Aubin. Expect oysters, seafood platters, a wide selection of small plates for sharing and larger main plates for those less communally inclined.
The vibe
Forgive the pumping Hedkandi lounge-house soundtrack. It’s a prerequisite for fitting into clubby air of Upper Street joints but seems out of place in the classy, stylish settings. The interior aesthetic and branding is refreshing, no shabby reclaimed minimalism or try-hard gimmicks. Instead, it tips its hat to nautical tendencies whilst sticking to a unique sophistication. It might have something to do with Marcel’s sister and co-founder Oriona Robb, London based stylist, being behind the design. The place has only been open a week but by 8PM the place is rammed.
The food
The octopus small plate is a must have – perfectly cooked with a rich spicy chorizo. Likewise can be said for the Hereford beef carpaccio; combining rich wild mushrooms and a sweet beef jelly with a smoked garlic pesto. For mains, the Brixham John Dory with a saffron & mussel sauce highlights Marcels ability to make a simple fish fillet radiate. It’s also great to finally see a new restaurant where desserts aren’t a hasty kitchen afterthought. The salted caramel tart is an intense, bittersweet delight served with a cutting raspberry sorbet. Meanwhile the pannacotta is the instagrammers choice and my personal favourite; sweet white chocolate, honeycomb pieces and tart blackberries and passion-fruit to finish.
The drinks
The cocktails feature some wild card concoctions (marscapone cheese) but for what we tried, they are well executed. For wine, the Flurie was a perfectly light red to sit alongside a fishy meal. There is also an entire page dedicated to 12 different gin and tonic blends, featuring London distilleries such as Jensens. Their delivery might have gin purists huffing and puffing into their cardamom pods but the selection and the blends on offer will have you happy they come in super-size.
The damage
Small plates range from £7-11, large plates £14-21.50. As with any small plates setting, take a group and try everything without breaking the bank. Cocktails are a comfortable £9.50 and a good selection of wines are still available in the “I have work tomorrow” 175ml serving size at good prices.
Conclusion
With cheery service and vibrant food in such a classy setting, Galley is perfect for the local Cos-clad, small dog-toting clientele. It is almost certainly set to be yet another trusty haunt for the Islington community, not that they had enough of them already.
Best for
Get a booth for a big buzzy group vibe or sit up front in a private table for an intimate date with a people-watching view.
For more information, visit www.galleylondon.co.uk
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