“When I go to a restaurant, I want to feel like I’m coming home…” — Flavio Briatore’s guide to pizza

Pizza is ageless, in every sense of the word. We don’t know how old it is, and it never seems to get any older. The Greeks probably invented it, though the Italians would dispute that — and both used it as a staple and a vessel; a way to beat hunger, and to extend the reach of more lavish ingredients. (Rosemary and sage; goat’s cheese and olives and good oil.) lt’s high and low at once: noble in its simplicity. It doesn’t need gimmicks, and it doesn’t particularly like them — when you see a hot dog in a crust, run the other way.

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