How to dress for Royal Ascot 2024
Ahead of June’s big event, we discuss the dos and do nots of race day morning dress
Words: Jemima Wilson
It’s that time of year again, when you don your finest morning dress, put on your top hat and head to Royal Ascot, the pinnacle of speed, style and high society. Founded in 1711 by Queen Anne, Ascot Racecourse has retained Royal Patronage ever since, and one particular highlight, besides the horses, is the traditional dress that’s on show throughout the event, as is best evidenced in the members-only Royal Enclosure.
It is said that Beau Brummell, the 19th-century style icon, was the first to dictate a code of morning dress for the Royal Enclosure, and, though fashions have come and gone during the past centuries, these sartorial foundations remain the same.
If you’re heading to the Royal Enclosure this year, these are the steps you need to follow to ensure you’re looking up to standard…
1. Prepare in good time
First, it’s all in the preparation. As a label with the biggest selection of silk top hats and the largest collection of morning dress in the world, Oliver Brown, open on Lower Sloane Street, Jermyn Street and, recently, in the City, is a one-stop-shop for everything you need for the Royal Enclosure. With this in mind, we’ve asked for a bit of advice from company founder Kristian Robson about where to begin.
Oliver Brown at 66-67 Cornhill, City of London
“We don’t take bookings – unless it’s for VIPs – so clients can just walk in and our staff will be happy to help. The week before Royal Ascot is our busiest week, but ideally people should come to see us in March, so it’s not such a rush,” says Robson.
Oliver Brown morning dress can be pre-booked online and is available to buy or rent, and the earlier you start to plan your ensemble, the more time you will have to try different options and ensure you look perfectly polished. So, put it in your diary for next year…
2. Stick to the dress code
There are now very few occasions where one really needs to dress up. Cheltenham Races has eased up its dress code, and even London’s most prestigious private members’ clubs are relaxing their rules when it comes to attire, but there is no such loosening in Royal Ascot’s Royal Enclosure, so it is important to be aware of the following traditions and requirements:
- Morning dress, comprising morning coat, waistcoat and formal trousers, is a requirement for men
- A black or grey top hat must be worn
- A simple shirt-and-tie combination is best – a white or blue shirt and a houndstooth tie is a classic pairing
- Either a single- or double-breasted waistcoat works well (remember to leave the bottom button undone on a single-breasted waistcoat)
- Your tailcoat should come to the back of your knees and show about half-an-inch of shirt sleeve
- Either lace-up Oxfords, or loafers, are appropriate shoes, and they must be black, highly polished, but not patent leather
- Socks can be colourful, but they must cover the ankle
Robson elaborates on what to wear (and what not to wear), as well as how to wear it (and how not to wear it).
“The dress code for the Royal Enclosure is a black, grey or navy morning coat, a tie (not a cravat), a collared shirt (not a wing collar shirt), and stripe morning trousers in black, grey or check.
“Waistcoats of any colour can be worn, but novelty patterns and fabrics (including slogans, phrases, promotional messaging, brand logos or cartoon imagery) are not permitted. Patterns of a patriotic nature, for example a national flag, are acceptable. Waistcoats should be below the waistband; not above so you can see the shirt. And always wear black shoes.
“We say don’t use sunglasses with top hats, even though it’s not a rule… but top hats shouldn’t be worn like a cowboy hat, tilted on the back of the head – they should be flat on your head. Wear it about 1inch above your ears, with no jaunty angles, please!”
3. How to choose your morning dress
Chances are, you won’t be wearing morning dress very often, so hiring a morning suit can be an economical option. But whether you opt to hire or buy one from Oliver Brown, the quality is the same, and its morning suits are the best you can get in the for-hire world by a long way.
You will be able to choose from a black, grey or navy single-breasted morning coat with peak lapels. As mentioned, the tails of the coat should fall to the back of the knee, and the coat should button across the natural waistline. The top of the collar and shirt cuff should show the same amount – about half an inch.
If you go for a grey morning coat, the trousers and waistcoat should be made of the same cloth, whereas grey ‘cashmere stripe’ and houndstooth trousers can be worn with a black morning coat. For navy, we suggest matching trousers. It is worth noting that all trousers should have a plain bottom, and another good tip is to wear braces to help the trousers hang well and prevent a gap between the trouser waistband and waistcoat.
4. Add flair by accessorising
Now, the fun part – adding a touch of personality to your morning suit. First, most people choose a simple tie in grey, red, light blue, or yellow – though brighter colours are allowed – and a tie pin is a traditional touch, but not a necessary one.
Then, perhaps the most important thing to get right, yet the easiest thing to get wrong, is selecting a perfectly proportioned top hat that will complement your height and face shape. We often fall back on Oliver Brown’s Royal Ascot Hetherington option. (There is also some etiquette to be observed around top hats. Gentlemen should remove their hat when greeting a lady or during the national anthem, and the only other instances where top hats may be removed are within a restaurant or private box, or within an enclosed external seating area, terrace, balcony or garden.)
Finally, a bit of wrist armour rounds things off nicely – we particularly like Longines’s Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve due to its traditional, timeless aesthetics that are done out in stainless steel, a classic round case and Champagne-hued dial.
5. Finish with a quality pair of shoes
And, finally, remember to have the firm foundations of your ensemble sorted, too. As previously mentioned, black shoes are the done thing at Ascot, and, given that this is an event steeped in tradition and history, it’s best that you opt for a pair of shoes that will last the years, both in wear and looks.
Here, Crockett & Jones is your best bet, the famed Northampton maker that has been producing elegant, sturdy footwear since 1879 and is venerated for its Goodyear-welted soles (a hallmark feature of high-grade creations within the industry) and use of great leathers that develop beautifully over time. Below are three of our favourite go-tos that always allow us to put our best foot forward.
Want more style content? We go inside Oliver Brown’s bespoke service…
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