Five of the Best Summer Rosés
Words: Violet
Those who think that rosé wine is made by a serendipitous blending of red and white wines are probably those who equate the category with mediocrity and a certain confected style which is devoid of character and complexity. This perception is gradually changing as it comes to be realised that rosé is made by bleeding juice off the skins of red grapes and thereby acquires a personality all of its own, an identity which can show off the merits of varietal or provenance, and should be as distinctive as it is delicious. In essence a good rosé will marry juicy fruit with a subtle but firm structure which ensures versatility. The burgeoning sales of the category bear testament to this resurrection, a phenomenon which shows no signs of abating. Here, Berry Bros. & Rudd recommend their best Summer Rosé wines.
2013 MIRAVAL ROSÉ, FAMILLE PERRIN, CÔTES DE PROVENCE, FRANCE, £19.95
Organically cultivated, the 2013 is an outstanding rosé: its gentle pale rose colour almost luminous in its beauty: its aromas subtle and lingering and its flavour profile enjoining citrus and red-berried fruits with great harmony. There is, as with all great Provencal Rosé, a pleasing herbal twist on the finish and more concentration than one may have expected from the understated hue. The kiss of spice at the end of the palate seals the deal. It seems, indeed, that Brad and Angelina are more hands-on than one may have expected, their hands expertly guided around the winery by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel fame.
2013 ARTAZURI ROSÉ, ARTADI, NAVARRA, SPAIN, £10.45
The Artazuri is an outstandingly refreshing rosé made from a top Navarra estate, owned by our good friend Juan Carlos Lopez De Lacalle, the magus of Artadi in Rioja. The Garnacha grape is naturally exuberant and richly fruity; it was ever thus, but impresses in this instance with its grip, structure and length, which does not come close to some of the confected, almost jammy examples often encountered. The red fruits here are allied to gentle notes of mandarin, spice and pepper. A really excellent rosé, promising much, delivering more.
2013 VIGNOBES LORGERIL, CHÂTEAU DE PENNAUTIER ROSÉ, CABARDÈS, FRANCE, £9.45
The vineyards for this excellent rosé are located on the sunny south-facing slopes of the Montagne Noire; the blend is shared between Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Grenache (30%) and Syrah (30%) and the technique employed is saignée, namely bleeding the colour from the grapes for a limited time before fermentation in the manner of a white wine. The result is a great success, with onion-skin going towards salmon colour, gentle redcurrant and raspberry fruit notes and a lick of spice on the finish. Excellent for summer time al fresco indulgence!, 2013 CH. PlANTEY CANTELOUP ROSÉ, BORDEAUX, FRANCE, £8.00
Reassuringly dark in colour, this delightful Bordeaux rosé is bursting with bright summer red fruits, raspberries, blueberries and redcurrants are all on show on the nose. The palate is soft and supple, but nicely dry with zippy acidity and very faint tannins setting off the summer pudding fruit. Perfect for lazy spring and summer days in the garden, or with a host of salads, chicken or even fish dishes.
BERRYS’ ROSÉ, JEAN-LUC TERRIER & C. COLLOVRAY, VIN DE PAYS D’OC, FRANCE, £7.25
A blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cinsault, with a relatively deep strawberry colour and attractive hedgerow aromas. The red fruit notes on the palate are pleasingly poised between the structured and the fruity, between white wine elegance and red wine weight. But as with all the best rosés, this is far more than an amalgam of red and white; it has its own personality and is as equally well suited to the pre-prandial terrace as to the table itself., Berry Bros. & Rudd 0800 280 2440 ww.bbr.com
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