Fera at Claridges: A culinary heavy-weight
Receiving its first Michelin star less than four months after opening, Fera is an experience rather than a meal, and I for one am just waiting for an invitation back to relive it.
At the core of Mayfair lies London’s Art Deco jewel, Claridges. Timeless in style and luxuriousness in abundance, this hotel embodies impeccable English glamour. At the centre of this establishment is Simon Rogan. Setting the European standard for his cuisine, he brings together flavours, textures and presentation to produce food that is truly delicious and enchanting. Cleverly enveloping his creativity within his lust for natural and earthy flavours, Rogan achieves a menu that is approachable and accessible for us city folk – perfectly balanced. Following in Gordon Ramsay’s footsteps may be difficult for most, but with two Michelin stars at L’Enclume in the Lake District, he is a chef with a sterling reputation, Rogan holds his own with ease.
The open double entrance to his kitchen somehow manages to not only warn off but welcome you into this den of chilling quiet. No other kitchen I have entered has been this meticulous, scientific in process and, above all, calm. Yes, calm. And no the wine list of over 700 bins hasn’t gone to my head (just yet…) this kitchen is an oasis of precision and culinary perfection.
Fera states that their name, the Latin word for ‘wild’, “reflects the powerful connection to nature that’s at the heart of our restaurant” and with a sigh (as usually namesakes are so often tedious and somewhat tenuous!) I would have to agree. The menu varies from deep coarse flavours of stewed rabbit to the light highs of raw veal and kohlrabi. The stand out for me was the native lobster with black garlic and chicken wing though – a meaty, crispy crunch combined with a deep garlicky lobster in a heavenly bite-sized morsel.
Sorry to say it gents, but you get what you pay for, this level of true culinary quality has a price. Their tasting menu will set you back a hefty £105.00 for the six courses (not including the £95.00 wine flight), however I feel that their set-lunch menu is completely achievable with three courses for £39.00 – an absolute steal in my eyes.
Given the hype that Fera had swirling round I was searching hard to be impressed, but to state that Simon Rogan’s place at Fera is a match made in heaven would be an understatement. A whirlwind of Michelin Stars, culinary accolades and ingenuous scientific processes, Rogan has made sure Fera’s success has been cemented on the London food scene for years to come. Claridges’ unique charm goes far beyond their afternoon tea and traditional service, a visit to Fera is a must for any self-proclaimed foodie, so just prepare to drown in frustratingly clever plates and luxuriate in their impeccable service.
For more information, visit www.feraatclaridges.co.uk or call reservations on 0207 107 8888.
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