A gentleman’s guide to double-breasted tailoring
Words: Charlie Thomas
Double breasted tailoring is as popular today as it has ever been and, after seeing a resurgence a couple of years ago, it has skyrocketed to the forefront of the sartorially aware. Of course, many of you will argue that the phenomenon never left but, whatever your opinion, double breasted tailoring is now here to stay. Here we take a look at the noteworthy men who pulled them off, as well as how to implement them into your own wardrobe.
THE INSPIRATION: CARY GRANT, , Whatever he wore, he wore it well. Cary Grant was one of the most stylish men ever, here he displays his prowess with a business-ready flannel suit. The perfect tie-knot, flower lapel pin and tilted fedora make this ensemble all the more appealing.
THE INSPIRATION: MICHAEL CAINE, , Michael Caine led the way for stylish British gents in the 1960s with his Mod-influenced attire. His rugged aesthetic was always taken up a notch by his expert tailoring, like here with this peak-lapel, double breasted suit.
THE INSPIRATION: HUMPHREY BOGART , , This photo is all class. We don’t know what we like about it more; the perfectly tailored, Prince of Wales check suit or the confident attitude channeled through Mr Bogart’s brooding gaze.
THE FIT, As seen from these photos, a double breasted suit or blazer would be a timeless addition to your wardrobe. As always, the focus should be on fit, but it’s especially important in this case. Try and go for a lightly padded, natural shoulder to avoid creating a boxy silhouette that wouldn’t flatter your body shape. The body and arms of the jacket should be slim but not restricting and there shouldn’t be any pulling of the material across the chest. Here are three styles you can wear today.
OUTFIT No 1: ALL BUSINESS, , With its six-buttoned front, patch pockets, peak lapels and double vented tail, this Gieves and Hawkes blazer is all business.
Navy Double Breasted Blazer, £295 from Gieves and Hawkes
OUTFIT No 2: RIVIERA PLAYBOY, , The double breasted blazer is at its most relaxed when teamed with an open neck shirt and chinos. The contrasting buttons are a fine detail, and contribute to this being a great choice for summer.
Mayfair Double Breasted Blazer, £186.75 (sale) from Hackett
OUTFIT 3: THE UPDATED GREY FLANNEL SUIT, , The grey flannel suit was the outfit of choice by businessmen of the late 50s and 60s thanks in no small part to its versatility and workhorse nature. We like to think the 21st century version looks something like this; equally as sharp but more visually interesting with its double breasted closure and darker shaded trousers.
Rake Double Breasted Blazer, £487 (sale) from Matches Fashion
Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?
Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.
