The story behind Cillian Murphy's Oscars brooch
Cillian Murphy embellished his Versace tuxedo with a very special brooch from Hong Kong-based brand Sauvereign. We spoke to the people behind it ahead of the 96th Academy Awards
Words: Zak Maoui
Last night Cillian Murphy scooped the award for Best Actor at the 96th Academy Awards. It's been a very good awards season for Murphy, and not just because the Irish actor has swept the ceremonies, picking up SAG awards and BAFTAs, but because he's pulled look after look out the bag. He's found his footing. He's been handed the style accolade. And this is by way of impeccably cut Saint Laurent tailoring (and floppy ties) and sharp-shouldered Versace suits, and the Oppenheimer lead was on hand to deliver more of that on the Oscars red carpet.
He opted for Versace on film's big night, wearing a pristine suit put together by his stylist Rose Forde. It was neat, and comprised a simple tuxedo, a black silk bow tie and custom Chelsea boots. But the real star of the outfit was a custom brooch by the Hong Kong-based design house Sauvereign, which was pinned to the actor’s lapel. Now brooches have been doing the rounds this awards season, with the likes of Jeremy Allen White, Simu Liu and Barry Keoghan rocking them, but this one was special.
"Metaphorical blood, toil, tears, and sweat, and several sleepless nights," went into the brooch, explains Bertrand Mak, founder and chief creative of Sauvereign. "I had to move mountains to ensure it was made in a week from scratch which was very intense."
The bespoke Sauvereign HS14 Gem Brooch is inspired by the actor’s leading role Oppenheimer. Its bespoke design pays homage to the exceptional ability of the world-changing physicist behind the Manhattan Project. "The HS14 is a one-of-a-kind bespoke object, a one-of-one, expressly conceived and created for Cillian Murphy," Mak told us ahead of the Oscars. "It embodies the dedication of both J. Robert Oppenheimer and Cillian Murphy to their respective craft, a symbol of artistry, intellect, and integrity.
Simple from afar, upon closer inspection, the HS14 is reticent yet radiant and brilliant. It is constructed from 18 carat solid yellow gold, and features of eight concentric trapeziums to mimic the shape of interior components in Oppenheimer’s invention. It was meticulously hand-cut, and assembled by legendary grandmaster Kari Voutilainen in Val-de-Travers, Switzerland. "Style is deeply personal, especially for someone as enigmatic as Cillian Murphy, I knew my design had to be simple but well-considered, subtle yet bold, minimal and detailed," Mak explained. "I played with the fundamental forms that only upon closer inspection reveal depth and complex nuances; it constantly oscillates between the two end of the spectrum. Like Murphy, HS14 has a quiet intensity that is strong but silent."
Yet the brooch wasn't always meant to be worn on Oscars night. "It was never intended for the Oscars," Mak explained. "[Rose] asked if I would work on a design and I could not resist, even if Murphy were to end up wearing it on his dressing gown."
For a brand as small and relatively new - it began in 2020 - as Sauvereign, this is a major milestone. The Oscars is the grand stage of red carpet events. And Mak hopes that it will set the pace for what's to come for his brand. "Sauvereign and I shall continue to strive for beauty and purity, persevering with substance in our very noisy and complicated world," he says. "One swallow doesn’t make a summer, though without a doubt this moment of triumph has catalysed new ideas and chemistry that I am excited to present in the near future. We have to keep climbing to prove and inspire, and the proof will always be in the pudding."
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