Charlie Casely-Hayford – The London Look
Words: Gentleman's Journal
Charlie Casely-Hayford is the tall, quiet man with enough wit and charm to spread throughout a military base in Timbuktu. I’ve seen him at just about every London party that’s worth going to but with his razor sharp cheekbones and instantly recognisable all-black blazers, trousers and shoes he is so much more. Cole Simmons sits down and talks to the man under 30 who has a résumé that would make even the most ambitious among us blush. Charlie founded the brand Casely-Hayford with his father, Joe Casely-Hayford OBE. Joe is the former Creative Director of Gieves & Hawkes rather than Charlie. Joe Casely-Hayford’s formal training began at the Tailor & Cutter Academy in London and also with tailor Douglas Hayward. Charlie apprenticed under Joe. A former Harrow pupil and Central St. Martins designer, he has been the man David Beckham and Michael Fassbender have turned to for the London look.Why do you think London embraces young designers?
The multitude of sub-cultures that exist here and have existed can’t really be replicated anywhere else in the world. I think it forces people to look at the use of identity within London culture on so many levels. There’s always been this subversive nature in London youth culture, dating back to the 50’s – for me that’s still at the core of the city’s aesthetic. A lot of young London designers don’t feel bound by convention or the conformity that maybe exists in a lot of other fashion cities.
Do you think designing for an established brand is of paramount importance before starting one’s own label?
I’m still a believer in learning and understanding what has gone before you, even if only to subvert it down the line or to understand how you don’t want to do things. Working for an established brand will always be an education for a young designer in one form or another, and sometimes it can give you a grounding that allows you to move a lot quicker within the transience of fashion.
How would you describe the ideal balance between commercial success and remaining true to the label’s core DNA?
If I knew the answer to that, it would be pretty plain sailing.
How do your designs relate to the lifestyle you live and in what ways has the way you lived changed as your experience as a designer has evolved?
They are pretty much one and the same. What I do for a living is my life, I don’t really leave work and suddenly switch off. Every interaction I make, and all the things I’m taking in everyday in and out of work help to shape and refine my opinion.
We live in a celebrity obsessed society how important is it when you see David Beckham wearing your jackets?
You unfortunately can’t deny the power of celebrity. We live in a time where the right person in one of your garments can make your business, so I won’t pretend it’s something we’re against, but we do make a point of only working with people we respect like the Mos Def or Michael Fassbender.
What has Dover Street contributed to the London menswear scene that was missing previously?
For me, DSM (Dover Street Market) provides that raw energy that is so prevalent on the streets of London, but missing from retail. The excitement and constant challenging of convention London street culture holds seem to share an affinity with the ideals that Dover Street is founded on. I think that’s what makes it really exciting every time you go in there.
Check out his latest collection – Click Here,
By Cole Simmons – Fashion Editor
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