Style -- 9 days ago
Boisdale Canary Wharf Review – Serving Steak with Sax Appeal…
Words: Holly Butler
Mention Canary Wharf to anyone and the same image springs to mind… city boys and corporate moguls with sharp suits and deep pockets. Boisdale is certainly no exception. They are here. But who can blame them. Boisdale boasts an Oyster and Caviar bar, 900 single malt whiskeys and a climate-controlled, walk-in cigar humidor. It’s a level of grandiosity that screams business cards and entertaining clients, but Boisdale chain owner, Ranald MacDonald, wouldn’t have it any other way.
Ranald MacDonald, eldest son of Ranald MacDonald the 24th Chief and Captain of Clanranald, has Scottish roots dating back to the 14th century. It is this heritage, alongside his love for whisky and cigars, that take centre stage in his restaurants. Your eyes quickly become accustomed to vivid red walls, floors, upholstery and even staff swathed in tartan, walls decorated with hanging stags heads (along with some rather questionable pop art-style frames featuring Chairman Mao?) and meat and fish sourced from animals that once walked or swam through the highlands. Luckily the Scottish vibe halts just before the music. Bagpipes don’t make for great lounge entertainment. Instead the venue hosts some of the biggest Jazz and Boogie Woogie bands in town, curated by none other than Jools Holland.
Surrounded by all this, having haggis to start goes without saying. Arriving accompanied with a noggin of whiskey, it was a rich, peppery chest-warmer that made for an adventurous change to the usual charcuteries and terrines that populate many starter menus. That said, even the more ubiquitous choices were served in refreshing ways, including 12oz fillet steaks served on the bone.
With a whole page of their website dedicated to their aged cuts and a number of other steak restaurants nearby to compete with, the bar is set high for Boisdale – some say they even lay claim to rivaling the famed Hawksmoor. The result however, didn’t disappoint, with the fillet maintaining a beefy richness often lost when going for the more tender cuts. We would have been content to eat it alone. However, the side of bloody Mary ketchup packed a chilli kick that riffed neatly alongside the meat, even if it wasn’t curing any hangovers.
The wine list is almost as lengthy as the whiskey’s but the clear favorite with the punters was Boisdale’s own-label collection, including the particularly special Clanranald Claret that coped well alongside the hearty dishes. As well as another glass…or two, we finished off the meal in what can only be described as an epic tribute to the cheeseboard. Boisdale’s glass-domed behemoth was wheeled over and after discussions of strength preference and origin, a selection of 10 were presented, and we were spoilt for choice with accompaniments including pears, honey and of course, Scottish oatcakes.
The band for the evening was a Boogie Woogie 6 piece. It was loud, brash and, after the 8th dizzying saxophone solo, perhaps verging on tacky. The audience loved it though and after a suitably jazzed up rendition of Jailhouse Rock, some of the most straight suited investment heads were up and busting their best Elvis impressions, much to the displeasure of the VIPs on the front row. It is this hectic, eccentric charm that sets Boisdale apart from the usual steakhouse hedge-fund sanctuary.
Boisdale Canary Wharf is a Scottish rosy-cheeked merriment with a 1920’s speakeasy twist that entertains both corporate clients and romancing couples alike. And to the whiskey and cigar connoisseurs; if you’re not already heading over on the DLR, you should be.
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