Words: Russell
Our recent infatuation with blue watches is one of the heart and of the mind. Blue, it’s said, is the world’s favourite colour. Perhaps that’s because it reminds us of our beloved Blue Planet (both the earth and the Attenborough series); perhaps it’s the soothing effects of these natural, lilting shades; perhaps it’s because everyone seems to look better in navy. Whatever it is, we’re hooked.
But there are practical considerations at play, too. Blue was first used on the dials of diving watches because it’s the last colour on the light spectrum to be filtered out by sea water below a certain depth. And, although very few of us venture into the deep of an afternoon any more, the blue face has stuck around, and can now be found on everything from dress watches to perpetual calendars. Here are some of our favourites.
Vintage inspired elegance: Breitling Premier Automatic 40
Breitling’s stock-in-trade has long been big, brash pilot’s watches. But, with its Premier range they prove that there’s so much more to them than that. The elegance of this understated, vintage-inspired watch shines through thanks to a magnificent sunburst dial.
A deep diver: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
A true legend in the diving community, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has cast a large shadow over the dive watch category since its launch in 1953. This model, with its regal blue dial, has a larger-than-life 45mm case, but never feels overly bulky, thanks to its lightweight titanium case.
Mastery in dial design: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon
The incredible skill of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers is on full display with this new addition to the Master range. Utilising both guilloché and enamelling to create a complex and satisfying dial, this model nearly stole the show at SIHH earlier this year.
A perfect perpetual pairing: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar
Blue and rose gold pair as well as steak and Bordeaux, and Vacheron Constantin match the two with the aplomb of a master sommelier in the Overseas. With a stunning deep blue dial and gorgeous detailing, this elegant model has easily interchangeable rubber and leather straps.
A dive watch out of water: Panerai Luminor Due
Watches seem to be getting slimmer and smaller all the time, and the Panerai Luminor Due is no exception. A diver’s watch that can be worn everyday, it sits at just 42mm in width and would happily slip under the cuff of a suit (while still feeling very much at home with a wet suit.)
A new direction for a classic brand: Breguet Marine 5517
Breguet are known first and foremost as the makers of fine dress watches, but with the Marine they have shown that they can bring elegance to sports watches, too. The blue dial here is made out of gold and boasts an incredible hand guillochéd wave motif.
The return of a classic: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
One of the most recognisable blue-dialled watches around, the ‘James Bond watch’ has been a favourite of gents around the globe since Pierce Brosnan wore it in Goldeneye in 1995. This new evolution brings back the wildly popular laser-engraved wave motif.
A detailed dress watch: Chopard L.U.C XPS
With the L.U.C XPS, Chopard considered exactly what was needed for a minimalist, sophisticated dress watch and ensured that there was a streak of Chopard DNA running through every element of the design. From the stylised hands to the sunburst blue dial, this watch is all about the details.
This originally appeared in our March issue, click to subscribe and get your issue now…
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