Words: Jonathan Wells
Watch this space — because this list is likely to change. With some of the industry’s most influential trade shows yet to take place this year, there are still countless new models, movements and innovations yet to be unveiled in 2023 — just waiting to be buckled up and admired by the Gentleman’s Journal team.
And yet, only three months in, there have been plenty of landmark launches. Breitling has added to its Top Time Classic Cars collection. Piaget has updated its classic Polo with an ultra-thin perpetual calendar. Audemars Piguet even introduced its most complicated watch ever; the Code 11.59 Universelle RD#4. And it’s with this last watchmaker that our team’s top picks start…
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph
Chosen by Sam Fletcher, Social Media Manager
My favourite watch release of 2023, so far, has to be Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph. I know, it’s quite a mouthful — but, while its name is busy, the watch itself remains lightweight, slick and neatly put-together. And that’s an impressive feat, given that it’s got plenty of functions and lots going on across that multi-dialled face.
And I’m particularly impressed by its dial — but not for the number of sub-dials and chronograph read-outs. Rather, for its monochrome design, and the use of the ‘Petite Tapisserie’ dial pattern usually reserved for AP’s gold or titanium models. It’s a decorative, chiselled pattern that changes throughout the day depending on light conditions — like a new watch every hour!
Breitling Chronomat BO1 42 Six Nations
Chosen by Dan Scothern, Partnerships Director
It can be a real treat when worlds collide, and two of your interests come together in a way which you don’t expect. Take the Breitling Chronomat BO1 42 Six Nations, for example — my undisputed favourite new model of the year, and one that unites my passions for rugby and rare watches. Despite its eye-catching dials and patriotic emblems, this Chronomat is an exceptionally versatile piece. At 42mm, it doesn’t dwarf the wrist, but doesn’t have you squinting for the time either. And, in being water resistant to 200m, it’s rain, sleet and Guinness-proof!
I’m obligated by birth to say that the ‘England’ variation is my favourite (the silver dial on a silver case is exceptionally clean). However, if I were to ignore the thistle on the Scotland model, the navy blue dial paired with the lighter blue second hand has it coming in in a very close second (quite the opposite to when England actually competed against Scotland…).
Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition
Chosen by Josh Lee, Senior Writer
Time, I often feel, is like a slippery friend of mine who I can never seem to get a hold of – deadlines, the relentless cycle of laundry, the long stretch of the Piccadilly line commute. The hours are never on my side, even just for one blissed-out afternoon. I like watches, but not with the same revelry a Hypebeast has for Stüssy, or the way in which a travelling diner jets between Alinea to Gaggan to Geranium.
One timepiece will do for me, and that, of late, has been Tag Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition. The silver sunray-brushed dial has the kind of sheen you’d find on rare satin, and the trio of black subdials brings to mind a childhood of Mickey Mouse flickering on the TV. The design is simple, pretty perfect, and smuggles in a bit of beauty into the ugliness of daily timekeeping.
Cartier Tank Française
Chosen by Freya Anderson, Designer, and Nefelie Pourgouridou, Social Media Manager
Nefelie says: With its contemporary and elegant design, Cartier’s new Tank Française seamlessly blends timeless sophistication with modern sensibilities. That durable stainless steel case, versatile bracelet, and sporty-yet-relaxed feel make it perfectly versatile. And, what’s more, the ‘Large’ model features an automatic movement with a power reserve of 38 hours — a testament to Cartier’s reputation as one of the world’s most luxurious, modern brands.
Freya says: This watch’s design hasn’t changed much since the introduction of the Tank Française in 1996 — so is more proof needed of its timeless style? Small, understated and feminine, it magically maintains its robustness thanks to that solid metal strap, and it’ll compliment most outfits — making it a good every day piece. Of all all the variants, I would choose the gold with the diamonds. They’re a girls best friend, after all…
Longines Spirit Flyback
Chosen by Jonathan Wells, Deputy Editor
Longines has seriously stepped things up this year. Last month, the Pilot Majetek soared onto the scene; an impeccable reimagining of a historic piece from 1935. And, this week, the Longines Spirit Flyback continues this vintage-tinged purple patch. It’s a chronograph watch with flyback function — a mechanical flourish first patented by Longines back in 1936.
But, momentous movements aside, it’s that brown-and-black design that does it for me. Longines says that the Spirit Flyback has been “created by the brand to accompany the greatest explorers in their conquest of the air, sea and land”. And, with that bronzed gold detailing, rugged leather and burnished black dial, it does look like the sort of thing Indiana Jones would buckle up. And who wouldn’t want that?
Grand Seiko ‘SBGW295’
Chosen by Dominik Vagner, Clubhouse Manager
The Japanese concept of ‘wa’ — which translates as ‘harmony’ — is an ancient philosophy, and a cultural idea that defines the nation. Because, whether it be in art, business or wider society, the pursuit of uniting modern and traditional values in well-balanced harmony is a quintessential part of Japanese life.
And the Grand Seiko ‘SBGW295’, which celebrates the 110th anniversary of Japan’s first wristwatch, is the perfect example of this. From the gorgeous ‘Urushi’ centre dial (which harks back to the Jōmon period) to the latest manual-winding ‘Calibre 9S64’ from the brand, it’s a timepiece that perfectly juxtaposes the modern and heritage values of the Grand Seiko brand. That’s why the ‘SBGW295’ is my favourite watch of the year so far.
Ressence TYPE 8S
Chosen by Nick Millington, Creative Director
Ressence has always been a brand that does things differently. And, like every model from the watchmaker, this latest release revolves around the brand’s signature innovation; the Ressence Orbital Convex System. ‘ROCS’ — as it is abbreviated — is a unique dial display, formed of several ever-changing sub-dials that continually orbit around each another.
And, with the ‘8S’ (the ’S’ stands for ‘sage’), this eye-catching dial design comes — for the first time — in a subtle greeny-blue shade. Paired with a grey leather strap, it’s the perfect head-turning tonal timepiece for spring.
MoonSwatch Mission To Moonshine Gold
Chosen by Robbie Health, Chief Growth Officer
I didn’t manage to get a MoonSwatch when the collection launched last year — so news of an additional model joining the range was extremely exciting. Unfortunately, I’m yet to land one of these, either. But the ‘Mission To Moonshine Gold’ is everything I want in a watch. It’s limited edition, so it’d be a unique piece to wear — and a conversation starter.
And, given my love of space exploration and astronomy, I love that the alloy used to create that shining, striking seconds hand (a blend of silver, copper and palladium) is called ‘Moonshine Gold’.
Want more watches? From Omega to Cartier, here are the best watches of the 2023 Oscars…
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