Style -- 1 day ago
The timeless T-shirts every man should have on hand
As the old design principle goes: keep it simple, stupid…
Words: Josh Lee
In a world of unchecked maximalism, making a statement (a subtle one, anyway) now comes in the form of wearing pared-down basics. With spring resets on the mind, we turn to the T-shirt, an item that best symbolises the spirit of simple dressing and also creates the foundation for many ensembles.
This particular garment has seen a resurgence in recent years, largely because of The Bear’s Carmy Berzatto, a determined Chicago chef who, among many things, has been noted for his uniform of Birkenstocks, grail jackets, and a pretty good supply of white T-shirts (more below) that all somehow avoid the leaping of sauces, flames and aggressively roaring veal stocks. So, after having re-watched a few episodes from the latest series, we felt the impulse to do a scout of the best T-shirt options available today. Below, we highlight a select edit of labels we feel excel pretty well in this department…
The ultimate one: Sunspel
Perhaps the greatest in the category, Sunspel has long been synonymous with creating premium essentials, and its Classic T-shirt – handmade in Long Eaton using extra-long-staple Supima cotton, the material admired for its lustrous texture – forms the backbone of wardrobes across the continents. The appeal, of course, is largely down to its lightweight, breathable construction, which feels delicate in the hand – as is the case with many considered designs – and, as a result, it can be worn either as a main piece when beachside or as a base layer under a cashmere knit.
Our suggestion is to pick up a handful, as they make for a particularly good foundation when wanting to build a failsafe uniform that can be used for both work and off-duty days. With the brighter season ahead, we’d also nudge you towards getting a mustard version, which sits on the right side of colourful.
The grail one: Merz b. Schwanen
Produced by Merz b. Schwanen and made cult-famous by chef Carmy, this product often sells out instantly, so coveted it is by style enthusiasts. Sturdy and reliable – in that typical German way – are the words that first spring to mind, as the T-shirt has been crafted from a 230g pure-organic cotton that has a great weight to it (a featherlight touch can often equate to excellent quality, as mentioned before, but so can something that feels like it’s been made for durability). We also like the fact it’s been cropped close to the belt, a nice contemporary touch that creates a more seamless silhouette.
To make the garment, the label uses 100-year-old loopwheelers, a slow-fashion practice that minimises the tension within the product, removes the need for side seams (meaning no twists) and also creates a throwback look and touch. Because of this too-tough-to-destroy appearance, consider one of the army-green models, too. The packaging – slim, old-school-esque boxes – confirms the brand’s dedication to the details, as do the limited batches. And, as these T-shirts run small, we’d recommend ordering at least one size up.
The summertime one: Luca Faloni
Despite being particularly excellent at luxurious knitwear, we also adore what Luca Faloni brings to the basics department, and this T-shirt, in particular, is noted for its textured look, something that helps stand it apart from the sea of options available.
Given its fabric – 100 per cent Italian linen jersey – this is one that’s better suited for summer, and the unrivalled softness gives it an elegant feel that matches perfectly with a deconstructed blazer and navy chinos. Wear to the French Riviera or the Amalfi – and we’d also say that a variety of blue options would complement the rippling waters.
The everyday one: Paul Smith
There are T-shirts for when you want to level up your efforts, those for sleeping in, and ones to use for everyday activities (running errands, literal running, doing housework, or Sunday lounging). Paul Smith’s workhorse of a tee hits the spot for those latter scenarios, partly for its price that’s easy on the wallet (but doesn’t veer into bargain-bin territory), partly because it comes in a pack of three, and partly for its performance that offers both breathability and longevity, something that comes courtesy of an organic-cotton make-up.
It arrives in a no-frills classic silhouette, has a fairly elegant drape, and is available in a James-Dean-worthy grey, black and white.
The long-sleeve one: Brunello Cucinelli
Even though it slightly veers outside the criteria due to its length of sleeves, we still rather like having this option to hand, mainly because it has a hybrid character: being collarless still lends that informal feel, but the long sleeves do add a slight shirt-like quality that makes things a bit dressier.
A specialist in luxury pieces, Brunello Cucinelli has long been a favourite label of ours, and, when it comes to this option, we could talk in great length about the buttoned placket or the inky tone – but the biggest thing to note is the slight weight it has on the shoulders. We also like Brunello’s mock-neck offering, which arrives in burgundy.
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