The very best classic T-shirts every man should have in his wardrobe
As the old design principle goes: Keep it Simple, Stupid...
Words: Josh Lee
In a world of raw maximalism – Gucci diamanté patterns, swathes of bubblegum-pink Barbiecore – making a statement (a subtle one, at least) may now, rather ironically, come in the form of pared-down basics. Over the past few months, we’ve covered several topics related to timeless, straight-laced designs, including barely embellished suede jackets, Goodyear-welted shoes, and discreet flex watches, yet, somehow, we’ve managed to circumvent the T-shirt, an item that perhaps best embodies the spirit of simple dressing.
This particular piece has seen a slight resurgence of late, particularly because of The Bear’s Carmy Berzatto, a focused Chicago chef (played by Jeremy Allen White) who, among many things, has been noted for his uniform of Birkenstocks, black Dickies trousers, and a pretty good white T-shirt (more below) that somehow avoids the leaping of sauces, flames and aggressively roaring veal stocks.
So, after having watched a few episodes from the last series, we felt the impulse to do a scout of the best T-shirt options available today. Below, we highlight a select edit of labels we feel excel pretty well in this department; their best base product (which, in every case, is a white option, or something of a similar tone); and an alternative hue that you can wear when wanting to inject some colour – but only a little! – whenever the mood takes.
The ultimate one: Sunspel
Perhaps the greatest in the category, Sunspel has, for more than a century, been synonymous with creating premium essentials, and its Classic T-shirt – handmade in Long Eaton using extra-long-staple Supima cotton, the material synonymous with a lustrous texture – forms the backbone of wardrobes across the continents. The appeal, of course, is largely down to its lightweight, breathable quality, which feels delicate in the hand – as is the case with many considered designs – and, as a result, it can be worn either as a main piece when beachside, or as a base layer under a few cashmere knits.
Our suggestion is to pick up a handful, as they’re a particularly good foundation when wanting to build a failsafe uniform that can be used for both work and off-duty hours. Being a classic design, we’d also nudge you towards getting a navy version, another wear-anywhere colourway.
The cult one: Merz B. Schwanen
Produced by Merz B. Schwanen and made famous by chef Carmy, this product often sells out fairly rapidly, so coveted it is within style circles. Sturdy and reliable – in that typical German way – are the words that first spring to mind, as the T-shirt has been crafted from a 245g pure-organic cotton that has a great weight to it (a featherlight touch can often equate to good quality, as mentioned before, but so can something that feels like it’s been made for durability).
This particular feature is a result of the label using 100-year-old loopwheelers to make the garment, a slow-fashion practice that minimises the tension within the product, removes the need for side seams (meaning no twists) and also creates a vintage look and touch. Because of this too-tough-to-destroy appearance, consider one in army-green, too. The packaging – slim, old-school-esque boxes – confirms the brand’s dedication to the details, as do the limited batches, and, as these T-shirts run small, we’d recommend ordering at least one size up.
The everyday one: Asket
There are T-shirts for when you want to level up your efforts, those for sleeping in, and ones to use for everyday things (running errands, literal running, doing housework, or Sunday lounging). Asket’s workhorse of a tee hits the spot for those latter scenarios, partly for its price that’s easy on the wallet (but doesn’t veer into bargain-bin territory), and partly for its performance that offers both breathability and longevity, something that comes courtesy of a 100 per cent Egyptian-cotton make-up.
It also arrives in a no-frills classic silhouette, has a fairly elegant drape, and is also available in a James Dean-worthy grey melange.
The summertime one: Brunello Cucinelli
Despite being particularly excellent at luxurious knitwear, we also like what Brunello Cucinelli brings to the basics department, and its T-shirt, in particular, is noted for its textured look, something that helps stand it apart from the sea of options available.
Given its fabric – 77 per cent linen; 23 per cent cotton – this is one that’s better suited for summer, and the ribbed hems give it a refined feel that matches perfectly with a deconstructed blazer and navy chinos. Wear to the French Riviera, San Sebastián or Bora Bora (a light-blue one would also complement the rippling waters) – and, once again, we’d suggest getting it in a bigger size than usual.
The long-sleeve one: NN.07
Even though it slightly veers outside the criteria due to its length of sleeves, we still rather like having this option at hand, mainly because it has a hybrid character: being collarless still lends that informal feel; but the long sleeves do add a slight shirt-like touch that makes things a bit dressier.
Specialising in contemporary-wardrobe must-haves, such as muted lightweight jackets, NN.07 is a current favourite, and, when it comes to this option, we could talk in great lengths about the waffle texture, the pearly tone or the slight weight it has on the shoulders – but the biggest thing to note is its use of Tencel, a low-impact material made via renewable energy and sustainable beechwood. (To keep with the naturalistic ethos, the shitake option works rather well during the transitional seasons.)
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